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OAPB MAY COUVTV TIMES REA IBLE CITY. N. J.
imsrmjim SIDE LIGHTS ■ Probably Sam Got His Lunch at Some Time BINGTON.—A horw (trawinc a ll*ht YrmfoD ran amnck the other day. T iQOAt bare been thlnklnx of that ctorer paatare at home, for he L over asp halt arlth the irreepoealble Joyotuaeaa of a colt and was f amand the cornet when an | boof roujrht in the harnern Lwi.-d hhn on the atreet. The imped oot and. aaatated by a . unbockled the animal from . And then a crowd a warmed F two women paualnt on the tf the commctlon becao roldnc Libetlc wall: the poor bora*—the poor
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better be thlnkln* of poor oa. Hell nilaa hla lunch hurry." But the eympathetle waller didn't want to hurry. She it kind. poor t M "t looks as If he had broken his lef—Won't It be awful If x to—You haven't jot a bit of pity In you. Jlnnie Blank." er you mind what I haven't jot! You come alons with the basket in miss Sam's car. A man that's been working since before sunup i hot coffee." coffee 1 What are yon talkie* about, womant How do you suppose !-ep the coffee hot at! this way. huh?" j don't mean to stand there and tell me that you haven't got a bottle for Sam—as good a provider as he is? Why. 1 wouldn't hear one of my boarders eat a cold luncn—not me! 1 got a thermos for t one." ma'am, I haven't got no thermos bottle, and lemme tell you eome- | The more you honey np a man the harder be la to get along with. I usher of bacon igtit to be ham. Bacon grew la no sort of food to give a man. like this. I sent my men off this morning with plenty of ham. a apiece, four slices of buttered bread, a wedge of pie and hot or all of 'em except old Ben. who likes his tea. Ill bet If I was in ce Sam would get all the hot coffee he wanted." it yon ain't In my place—see? Sam wouldn't look at any other And he Just loves blond hair." a Little Housewife Chat on the Side YBODY except Old Man Science knows that the very first aviator the broomatick witch. And those In the secret are .tjunlly aware always been Jealous of that cow that Jumped over the moon—for why? The greatest altitude she has eve- been able to attain Is the cobweb district this aide the sky. where the sweeping baa to be done, but—these are startling times ami the first thing that witch knows she will be topping the cow record, because that Is where the price of brooms Is soaring today. A woman bought one and paid a dollar for It without one word of complaint because the ground Is needed for wheat. Another woman, an ancient soul with a skin the brown of well cored..offered the affable statement that It “wasn't r.uth a I She had bought one “las* roonf for r-eventy-flV cents an' it was so that before she could runner roan' twarn't nothing but a nubbin’—on* rs at that—on' that's the Lawd'« trufe." Id you soak It overnight In a backet of tailed water to toughen the That makes a broom last three times as long. And maybe it wore rs b<-cause you let It stand on Its own weight Instead of hanging It by idle." as. honey, you know* 'nuff 'bout broom* to be their own mother, don’t Huh. huh! None. 'deed, chile. I nevah bearn the fus' word about brooms Uker that, an' I'm oler 'nuff to reclec' when Shumman come n' down ocr road. But. leniroe tell you. we ain't nalr one of us too old Ity to fuse good ad-vice, an' I'm gwlncr soak de nex' broom dr rood tees fit to sen' me—yes, honey, dat'a me. But I don't know wbar I'm trine to git good money to throw away on a broom. Tbey's a dollah an' putty soon they'll be gltUn' high enough to Jump ovah the moon. that is how you know what is coming to the broomstick witch. Much to Expect From Frail Femininity niNGTOjrS “Battalion of Death" ha* gone on Its summer vacation te steady advance of the summer bent was too much for the feminine lea. recruited from the various government departments. Ninety detbe shade was enough to the enthusiasm of even the r . yap f esolute marcher. " ( ^ . the mercury crept up. the aplr- 1 r s the soldierrttea went down, and time the thermometer t>e|*a to r 100 or so as a regular per ice. the roost enthusiastic t It time to knock off until fall, e girls first began to drill In ■ation for the Red Cros* parade, r army and marine drill serwerv loaned by the war departBy the time the parade came off the girts were as proti. seasoned veteran In the “right oblique" and other orders of parade, istingulshed themselves In the long line marching down 1'musylvcnla and the soldlerettea liked It. They liked parading. They liked being w well they did It. 8o they decided to keep In trim during the followuths. Parades follow yarade* with a marine rapidity In Washington days. The girl* thought It well to be prepared. lot the Ellipse Is not the coolest place In Washington on ti summer •oon. The Bold!ere;tea lagan to fear that they aould be roasted tC before getting even half a chance fo display their proficiency. Then i brought out all the freckles they had been ao carefully guarding for ao long. Even a Sammy, provided It is a feminine one. cannot be for objecting to freckles right on the tips «f their Buses, the battalion decided to adjourn their drill until next fall, when the freckle will have retired to winter quarurs and the girls can drill unburdeae'' minds and hearts. t One of the Pleasures of Postal Clerks STAGE stamps are little things which one uae* day afti * day and geo think* about not at all. And yet hundred* of men akd women them have to thin* about them, and the thousands of postal employees who sell them throughout > have to think about them as dressed In the bright o! In far*, there was Jusl * much of fashion aboat him Maybe It was the cane, or maybe It waa the light giuvea cm a hot day. *■! maybe- It was the too high collar. There too much of aouielhlng. tbal was
WHAT CAN we€ Do?
WELL-PAID WOMEN BUY NEW CLOTHES
The Stage Wotiuiu's War llrilrf Is a large charity with many brunches. Among Its activities la a committee which has chnrge of the making of wind-proof vest* for aviator* and other fighting men who find It difficult to dress ao ns to keep warm. These vests are mode of old glove* and plcer* of leather and are warmer than •wcatero. It Is said they ore a great protection against "beastle*" that are sure to nnsault the soldier. Gusts of
wind cannot gw by them.
Everyone who has old kid gloves to spare should contribute them to the army or loam how to make the vest*. The Stage Woman's War Relief has a large light loft. Installed with electric sewing machines, where the vests are made. Many of the gloves are sent In already cleaned—and this Is a great help—others are sent to the cleaner. Then they are cut to form flat pieces of leather. These are matched -ip for site and color. After they have been pressed out they are hasted together
and stitched on paper pattern*
The reverse side of the vest l« made of canton flannel or other cloth, provided with a practical and roomy pocket r.nd tben the vest I* neatly bound with braid. Leather book covers and leather postcard* can be used In these vest*, a* well as gloves, and some Interesting—not to my amusing —vests result from the use of these. Any sort of usable leather may be commandeered for this purpose—pH* low top*, table cover* and book cm-era. The leather mnst be firm and whole, and contributions are doubly welcome
when they come In dean.
It 1* easy to understand that better vest* ran br made where large conributloas of leather are received and the pieces can be matched np. than otherwise. Also then the women making them become expert. Anyone wishing to do something useful In almost any community can undertake to accumu-
late leather for this purpose. Through the schools a great many gloves have been gsthered. the pupils getting contributions at home that are brought to the teachers and sent by them to the collector. Stores will sometimes make contributions of old styles and cleaners give gloves that hart- never been railed for by their owners. The collector may place her materials through the Red Cross or send them to the Stage Woman's War Relief at 18 West Thirty-fourth Street. New York.
The Touch-Stone. The well-dressed woman knows that It Is In detail tlia: she ran prove het right to the title. Even last year's frock can be given a very up-to-the-minute air with u becoming new veil, new neck accessories or a girdle of decorative value. Any one of these ald-de-cumps will work wonder* In rejuvenating a costume. Take, for luce. the girdle. The plainest of dresses become* Interesting at once when one is added. The Importance of the girdle In this year's fashions waa exemplified the other day In one of the new plays. In which a young actress ■ the plainest dress of white crepe, which had a girdle that vroa turned oner at the left side and the ends finished with deep silk fringe. It made the costume, and the ensemble was stunning.
Evening Gowns Passe. Evening gowns are now almost a lost art. Few women ore buying them In their place we find nfternoon frock* of lace or net or point d’esprit. combined with satin. Above all. however, come the pretty soft chiffons In neutral shades—beige-, navy, black, mauve and gray. These clinging chiffons roand out afternoon and evening ( slnns. For the older woman they arv the type of frock par excellence.
CORSETS FOUNDATION OF GOOD DRESSING
New York.—A wounded Ann.,- had com* to America to lecture. He l“ire some hiuiumhle senrs on hla body, which were symbolized by stripes on Ids arm. A woman touched the stripes uud asked wliat were his worst wounds. He cjesrriliod one. which was a c’-nn hole made by a bullet. In his Informal Anzac manner, he naked If she would like to sec 1L She would. So would everyone else at the luncheon. So be showed her the bullet bole below the collar bone. “How very disappointing!” she exclaimed. “I expected a great gush." The Anzac buttoned his collar thoughtfully, and turning to the table sold: “Now. I ask you. what are we going to do, with women If they begin expect so much of men In this war 7” And what will they do with them? Men have begun to expect so much of themselves, that the situation Is the most vitally Interesting thing on this planet, next to the war. observes a distinguished fashion writer. omen art- gaining so much more by this war than they ever demanded, that many are puzzled and some ere nearliystericnL Once we wore a contented race; then we became an nnqulrt sex: then we became a restless force; and tben we became a militant power. Those with the keenest vision* saw ahead of them a long struggle. They outlined the propaganda of self-educa-lon for women; they lectured to men and of men concerning what we should have In the way of Industry and commercial opiiortunlty. Whenever men said that we were not sufficiently educated to take over the commercial burden* of the worid. we retorted that we wonld never he educated If we did not iM-gin to study. Women Spend More Money. Of one thing the prophets are sure; that women, making money, will spend more. Not having to ask for It. they will cease to he petulant about it. When a woman knows there are three thousand Jobs open to her and that i he can cemmand as good a salary a* the man she sent to war, she Is not going to lie niggardly about gettln; new clothes, enjoying herself and refurnishing bej house. Human nature never changes, no matter what else changes on this planet. and spending will be a woman's antidote to hard work. If she has been repressed in the matter of buying attractive things for the house or for her body, she will go out and gorge herself on those things when th- first freedom from debt gives her a buoyant feeling of happiness. The business of feminine apparel should always have been attended to by women, not men. This channel of activity Is being directed to Its right
mean v., 11, lint they arc planting seed on barren soil. There must be soma pleasure la this world, or we wonld all go road with the pnln and anxiety o' It and If you ask three million wonm to work for thrir living you must give them the chance to deck themselves out In a hit of gay plumage and go oot and cat and laugh; otherwise, they will iM-corae useless for all service, potrlotlc or Industrial. Demand for Evening Clothes. Let roe tell you on odd thing aboat this development of women's work, which has been brongbt nbout not only
ted Into the drug store on the comer and strolled over to the (Hiatal station window. A brisk young » »as aland!ng behind the wttdow. “Have you any atomi-V" *«ked aetdata one. parting a hrmrj accent on the ■wtoropa," as he called | air," Mid the young elcrtt. personage twirled his cane. at arv tbeyr be aaknl. evidently felicitating himself on discovering ay to aay “Ho* muebr ywrog clerk answered, pleaaantly: y. my 4*«r air" he said, "they are little piccw Of paper With a
The problem* of the maker* of corset* are many and dlflU-ult. hut the corset* of today rre marvels of skillful designing. In the flrat place those who create corset styles roust understand thoroughly the various «y(>e* of figure' and they mui 1 undertake to make each one of them shapely without the sac rifle- of comfort. Ttil* I* not at all easy; for the too-slei-der soman mu-' In- given pretty curves uud tin- fat woman must have hers smoothed out Resides. Women demand corsets that are light in weight and have few bone-c-r steel* Fashion decree* that worn on shall be ao carefully corseted that they look Ulicorweted when they are dressed. The contour of the figure mu*! conform to beautiful lines. The new comet* are made of firm but very flexible matcrlul* and with the fewest |HM»lble number of bon*-* They ore nearly at! very low In the bust and give perfect freedom to th' diaphragm. There are equally «o"d model* 111 Iron! “Oil In back-lac's! style* so that each woman must deti-r .nine for herself which is best BUl«<-d
to her figure.
The corset I* the foundation of su<esaful dressing and should be filt'-d with the greatest rare. We have all met women who achieve the Ixst style 1„ the simplest frock* and suit*. It 1« all a matter of henutlfull/ balanced llnea and o...- roust begin at U«- 1- g n l„, posM-sa them, and the beg ning I* the c'irsct that fits and *hu; Ihr figure All good dressmaker* .
dervtand this.
A front laced end a la.ck lac.-d o M t an- shown h.-re At the Wft « rM -t designed for a slender figure
a trifle higher In the front and ei-mdd-erably higher in the bark than ths model designed for a fuller figure which Is shown at the right Corsets for stout women are very low In ths bust; for It l* their province to lengthen and straighten lines that are too much curved. Whin the corset lias been properly fitted and the contour of the figure made as nearly correct as the ooraet can make It the way of the dressmaker Is easy; nil slie has to do I* to preserve the lines which result
from good corseting. Length of Blouses.
It Is evident that all blouses that •ar the stamp of fashion will extend I halfway between the waist and knees. I Th'-se blouses are often sleev eleaa i when worn under coats. They are built of colored chiffon that does not match ! the gown, or of linen, albatross, silk •and woolen Jersey and eordod silks Every effort 1* !«elng made to put out of fashion the blouae that end* at the i walstlliie and ruts off the figure.
which
I drew. Over the- slip of firmer mail
j rial, which I* very l»w c
j baa the higher neck Hue and lung | -IrrVes. Another new type of thw •b'-aara I* the gown, which I* very Ugh at the. bark of the Urch uud low
in front.
Black satin, tulle and lace. There is a long tunic, which starts with a pointed bodice built of the aatin and swings free over a tight petticoat of black Chantilly lace. There Is a shawl of black tulle, which stands well away from the shoulders and
reaches to the elbows.
course. A million or m.vrr mm on this '-•■ntinent. who arr mixed up In wornen s apparel, will have to give up their places in women, who have an Instinctive knowledge of what other women want, and do not wont. With training. which will give them a cool head, n smooth tongu<- and the ambition to rise, they will make admirable clerks, tns-rwalkerr. loads of department*,
buyer* and shopkeepers.
it I* toward the apparel business that | titry are rapidly drifting. That la their desire, and all their preliminary training of the rriiturt?* ha* lilted then: for j tms particular aertor of industry. Bej lug 111 the business, they will spend more money on cbHli . and they will I influence the expenditure of other This is the situation which all scri u> minded women realize and whieh .III probably dominate the country be
1 re peere 1* coacludrd.
It Is oacleas to tell women that tiny .us: net bay ti'-tbc*. The refonm.
This gewn is of mauve and yellow-fit' ured taffeta cut as a paneled Urnlr over a skirt of mauve-colored plaited chiffon. The bodice is cut in thw new indefinite fzvhlon, with tfbww sleeves showing ruffles of chlffoa. , through their service In paying po*-i tlons. bnt In war relief work. It Is the growing demand for eve' nlng clothes by women who have heretofore never Indulg'd In them. Ww are only following in the footstep* wf hnman nature as It has asserted ItaeB* In France and England during the last eighteen months. 1‘arts has ohoam am extraordinary Interest In this drwfloptnent. and the London thinkers awd merchant* hove found It to be aa ewgrnasing by-product of the war. Evening dress has always been s thing for the Inxnrions. It has heew Indulged In by those whose Urea wet* more or leas given to leisure. MllUoaa of women have not considered U necessary to change their somber atrng clothes Into low or half-low, fragile ones for the evening meal or ermine myrtles. The street suit, with a few ehang'-s. has serve I during the waklag hours. The shirtwaist and sport skin have filled in the rest of the retries needed. But this condition no longer exists In Europe, and It has chang'd In Aroer* Ico In the twinkling of an eye. Whyt \V.-itnen have more money; they ham more opportunities; Industry, rharitg, war relief, hospital service and cum : alt tee work have brought women from th<- depth* of aortal obscurity late hourly contort with those who lead fashions and live leisurely Uvea. All of this bus lifted the art off dress Instead of degrading 1L It fm livens life; It brightens the prospect of our an -rlflces; It Is a light to ov endurance. There were days when a woosm used her motor coat for any rtianrw evening gnyety. Today she Is ssklag for one of the vast assemblage of evening cape* that the shops and drewetnuk. rr. offer to this new type af buyer. Tli cw new wrap* have extra ordinary charm. They are figured, whereas they used to be solid. They are lavishly trimmed with fur, regardleaa of suw roer weather. Chiffon. In great Dresden pattern* Is used over silver or gold metalBr doth, or a lining of plain ntin. Dark colon are chosen, as ^rfl am light. The two new blur-. “Llbat** and “Bine Devil." are chosen In empa or chiffon that ha* an Immense plak. scarlet or white and yellow flower on It. There are other wrap* made of Dokly Varden. flowered white chlKom which are lined with lace, with mam or pink chiffon as an Interlining. (Copyright, ins, hr the MrClur* Ntaapa per Brndtrata.) Wide Girdles. Very effective and useful are widw gtrdh* with aaah bow atul end* mad* of fancy flowering ribbon wh.-n worm on simple white dresae*. Th* coloring In tbe ribbon of st;ch girdles la chosen usually to roan U the colors la the hat trlroiilug.

