PaST Six

CAPE KAY OOtTKTY TIMES SEA ISL>- CITY. N.

HUIN SIDE OF

men. Thb soclnl life of ihe rejlr'-vi: is nnp i’f M« responidhilities. Tlie ' ' orvlfc. ibe * itslus nuitrln-s. iiie VoiM'.r boll ^it-'e*. otnt the wniHUr^ l**cu

his iiro-.Iiui - . IJe vri'-*

I f 1 '** 7 n»r men win are slrh ?■ niilllf v ■ I- ^ <*' >« dlClruliy .-.r

H in tin efaaplalu who tacst :tn-

ij mms..

Chap!;

sin Is the hian Who Gets

Nearest to tr.a Boys.

OVER THE TOP WITH TROOPS

Besides Ministering to the SpiriiuBf -"mnll.

pirt

'• pni i' die :uan int<* wr.lre. Ueei;uM> li- ha« i •■very one. the rUnr aln berotnen involved in tnatij ueliraii problems of ooiluct. I one.' reeelve«l a rather poihetic note from rite mother « f .m- of the men. nsl.icn V.hethe; .i-r Imj Mn* Mill Ct the po-tt. I iuniln-n.nl t.> knuw that he

Wearing Colors Keeps Up Morale

Among the Style Show Frocks

Ne

r Tort—It 1» the honr to talk ! world. There you have in a not shell

l v

Needs cf Soldiers, the Chap. i Place Is Wherever

His Men Are.

■a! antinl him

n 1'uU.c t

l.in

t.i s-v the If

hy ho had not v r e who].' ulnry •■aitie •> Itirlns hlfc Christ Cl ’'•Idler bad aiatrins!

had «r:H

r did not ::

<.f tet.iIKT. hi. wished nm or ini 1'piln. He

Titut

Go Over the Top.

So far I have • •! r.'thins ah..at the of tk rtiaple n* In U..- Il -M. t.hleh. for the j.rrset.S v.: r. near* -l.lrfly “over there." My o".T» e*P'rlenee lu.^ not yet ext -ndeil thlllrer, but I ran anstrrr briefly mune ef the question* that people nuk. Tlie qo 'rr i< often pat to liie: “I*, rbipliln* c ■•i'o the front-line trroelie'T' Tbanswer y,^. „f e.iurm-. fYeqneatly

the top with the men. A

IKroai the Commit

By A UNITED STATES ARMY CHAP-

LAIN.

X consider my job the most in: .-st-

Inc in the army. No olhrer am. iu«ir»> iuiil J*u>i; .lej the bo rich and varied •qip.irtunities for sen- the difllculty wa- rm" Ice 'iu.u a rhapiain. No -.-Sh er s cnl- n difficulty sxu.Mth.il «ndar peve uts printer •■oaitusts. It is lai;. s duty done,

a chaplain's duty t » oversee the dispositions of his mobile florfc. as well a> their souls, maids, amusements, morals, correspondvnee. and rvjdms lux.tier, lie H UM no from tlie IliXills rinn to the hosjiiuil. nad fnan the Uu'atcr to the spxanl house, lie is in Jail oft oner tlian anj- other man in the nervier. But. if h!s work Is well done, lie is there none too often to suit the

turn.

Last January General IVndiins seat

a eaWosrut. to the .• -cretary of w;:r rtwptalnVi r | nrr |, tshlitK that the number of chaplains . irv- aui « h , n . Ih .j Brr ,| rn -, T h . In Uie army Ik- increased for the war K t , Mi _ A ehsplaln who Is no: wilim. to an avenge of three per resiment. | f c^^ry. to |,*e faU |»e in the jv-r-Ills eahlegrnm read*, iu part, as f..l- f„n«an.i‘ of his duties Is false to his lows: - I believe the per- ! trust cad does net d.^erve Mseonuais- * cacri ° r ; rnj y "as never been »i„n. a* a matter of fart, many h.v equaled, and the maducs has been been Wiled. The mortality ntnonr excellent, l‘Ut to ovenwmo luuirely the chap'alns on the western front has condition* found her.- n-qulr.-* fort;- as Wch as on- a tlav. whleb Is a tnde born of great courage and Urfiy high f-un-maar wh.-n the small f a wpiritm.! Ideas. Conn .ng ta>«etf f- nnmher of eftaplnln* I* ennsideml. iq«oos.lde for the welfare of our men The chaplain Ins this nddi!i.«al in every r.-'po. ;. it is my d.-ire to ».-< of nerve—that he Is ot.lige.1 to K .i •ttnouuJ them with the Iswt luduence nnamid. fly the terms of the *t.-:iei-n possible, la the fLdflllxneat of Ud> m>I- iimrestiaa. H. ipicin- an- n.i- perr:::cmn trust. 1: sums wise to tvqucot ti. • '! to .-rrrv t.m.s. Of c-u.-se, in r»aid oi tin- itiurcln-s Xroitj borne. .1. .' mm for this, the person • ( the ehspThe chaidaln is a ouuml'slw-. d offi- lain t.< Wlpposed to Is* mrr.- u. flat or. start.!.: with the rank .»f tirst . verj-uje know* tha' to th • Him the UrutcaaaL He 1* ulwavs an urdriard s;.f,’tn.ii\l« of the tienevxi cstneali-o dcnymaii who ha~ li.:d practical ex- -re :e ns the Sena n .-a tbr

perii-m-e as a p.oior hefor. .utenng M ant i» to theta, the army, 'i he tUfferect rril:-..>U' A Bntther to tha VJbuudcd. . :ed IU the limp- The -idtal U one of the prineTpa!

colors and fabrics. We have been given a comprehensive outline of vrhat to expect In the new fashlona. and we have made up our minds to accept or reject, as we choose, observe* a prom

Incnt fashion authority.

The details of autumn clothe* have h.-en digested by us. The long skirt the continuance of sa'hes, the grcwlnr Importance of collars and cuffs, and the relinquishing of the attempt to make stiff high collar* fashionable have filled us with the r.««urance that we know enough to make a start.

the reason for this debatable questhm ■ The fcho|« will give us red, blue, green, yellow, plaids, atripes. Chine** brocades. Baypdere bands and all th* glory of Bymnttnm and the Asteca

Wear them If you will.

Feature* of New American Fashions. There Is no disposition to conserve color on the port of designers tn America. who have gotten their work ahead of the exhibition of new French clothes which will come about In the next thre* weeks. They do try to conserve wool. In doing so they follow the French

luin.ivs i th<. nmt.li

large. Each is

t the dll- ,

s for

"In i

Cii-; a.n an Infortnahon Bureau.

a a* th’-y f»«d he tt ir.volcnnrfly i nd ii Is rr... f.w

i N a rimpleln. lie li.: 1 Isilly Intcresttsl in on" «f tie V a* S. ril oily ill nnd not ex live. Every time the chap

him. Ibi

y J im .

r»l

little

Women are dlrlil.il In opinion aa to on ,j Eij C i| s i, p| r , n „f firing frocks r the wisdom of Introducing a long aklr wintry look by adding peltry, but they at this hour. They also question thextreme decolleiace that has beer, adopted for the day-time hours. They protest rather violently against the ef fort to continue abort sleeves In th.

fashion.

They found their objection* on sound basic principle*. They insist that wwr activities are hampered by long skirts: that deep decolletage In the daytime doe* not look boslnessllke. and tha: short aleeve* are an aleturd fashion at a time when one must pay thm dollars for a two-button glove, am! far more for one that wrinkles to tb.

elbow.

Why are these things done? la the question of the majority of women. The soothing answer is that they arc done for the same reason that one substltntes an entree for heavy meat once In n while in the menu. Woman's taste In dress, ns their taste In food, becomes dolled and satiated by a constant repetition of severe and wholesome diet. A bit of foolishness now and then, such as an entree or a abort elbow sleeve, a aouffle or a deep decolletage In a luncheon gown give* n fllllp to the jaded appetite. Argument Rife Anent Color*. Discussion does not stop at the details of the silhouette or at the Incoming and outgoing of certain selected fashion** It shnttles to and fro through the web of women about the selection of color* for the autumn nnd

winter.

Philosophy, psychology, history of wnrs and people* nt u;,r enter Into Un-se arguments. All di*m«don of . this epoch Is based on higher and more complex reasons than personal likes ; and dislike*, and the rejection or acceptance of certain fashions In woman's nppnr.-l gets into this conversational environment ns quickly as any other patriotic movement. It Is the psychohigienl quality In butn:.n nature that is buck of all this argument about accepting colors. Musses of women think that black, ami blue, and brown should be worn until peace is declared, with ourselves among the victors. Others Insist that tills Is the very time to brighten the moral atmosphere by adorning our-

Among the pretty frocks shown at the style show*was this one of poplin. Indulging In narrow bands of velvet, and In plaited panels at tlie back and front. Only silk frocks ran be allowed the extravagance of plaits; It Is out of the question to allow extra quantities of woo; fjr them. This attractive dress ha* more than a generous allowance of plaits to Its credit, for It displays a new management at the bodice. For the slender woman who * spires to wear a straight line dress but hopes not to look angular, this Is a

model worth studying.

Tlie bodice is exteudid several Inches below tnr waistline and Is straight, with bands of velvet tliat relieve Its plainness and Improve the flgure. The sleeve* are handed In the same way and finished with a velvet ruff—Umt is simply a wide hand. The little Jacket Is plain and lias a shoulder cape that widens the shoulder line*, and It falls In a s'lgbt ripple over the hu*t

and at the under arm*. In otlwrH_ It eon reals the deficiencies cf ti* « thin flgure. It is finished with t Ing collar of white wash mui high at the back. By the same sort of subtle cm* meat the plaits and the h«nM bands on the wide panels of the « fill out the thin narrow hips sad m to betray a curve which ther n help to make. Altogether It is eta* ly well designed and so sit home dressmaker can hardly W ft make a good copy of It. Tori:« a striped material may 1m soWit* for the velvet bauds. If a nr.j.d a trrial Is Used it must mate!. In cd the plain goad* to be used «i:h k.

Autumn Brim* Vary Many of the hat* for fall m ther large ns to brim*, and »> a slderable number of these molrfcl brlu-.o of Irregular shaping, -e* decided pointed effects.

Furs and Fur Fabrics on Coats

This ia a sleeveless vest of sealskin, worn with a blue serge frock. There is a plaited skirt with embroidered panels at the sides which hang boSow th# hem cf the skirt. have no hesitancy m mdng materials tbal an- often considered suitable only for spring and early autumn. Cn pe do chine, thin velvet, heavy chiffon doth, taffeta. fr'Ue. heavy Batin and many of the tricot weave* that (Delude silk Jersey, may he considered the everyday run of new materials. Serge, of course. Is Included. It ortnea first. In the tuhldi' and last. The Atncrires designers who have chosen these material* In various patented tmines for their gowns have not used fur as lavl-hly as wa* prophesied. There |* already a warning that we may not have much peltry In a few month'. n« there are few trap|ier* left and n.d enough men to pre|«re the

sktas.

Band* of peltry are used on hems of akin*, high •-•'liar* and gaunth-t euff* are rut In shapely fashion, but theta la a perceptible glimmer of efouotay wherever fur 1* added to a thin material to give It a tuasonable appearance. Use for Leftover Pieces. It I* w ell Hint the amateur In riothe* be wann-d abend of time of tbl* probable a<ardty of peltry. In order that ■be may use *: this strictest valuation the bit* of fur she lie* in her I*lie

Beaver trims th* amart coat of vriours 4* tame, and there ia a big of beaver to match.

All along the line on.- sees rti-’si-rra-tlon of won! Iu tile new An.er.Tin doriie*. and a more lavish display of wool In the slitebe* that are coming «»*er from the French openings. It U dim.-vitt to amalgamate these two ootrdlfloti* hut we are told that the French b*e a rr-at derl of Imitation • ooi and tirtirh It tip with sem!pr*» t..i.. furs, t., tint the government la In to- fit.tor d* frs.nd.il of an Inch at fabric that It newts. Rome of f|>e Frenrii materials that Imitate wool are quite cumbersome, yet coats and rttr-* are made of them aob off.red H» tlie smart thing In this •nuntr* They are *i>ft to handle and not weight) to wear, and it I* quite l-robuhl- that women will like th.*n itetter than thin tnatrrh.1, which looks

Fur fabrics have passed the rxjsTiuientul stage and are now as much a part of the winter's resuurees for gar, mrats and trimmings ns furs themMlvea. Tln> sre used a* furs are. for trimming cloth runts and tor the ImmI) of cunt* that ■ nsually fin Ished off with g.iiulne fur in collars and ruffs Their uuuiuf.-irtuie ha* renebed sueh a degree of rxecUrnrc that they ran U-.ir the sort of 'Kmimris.iu with natural fur* When tb.- question •rf durahttlly I- raised Hie evtdinee Is all tn favor of fur fabrl.a -they outbist almost . all other riotbs and .m»w-ar the s..rt.-,t furs hy

Til-

ral ■

« turlined

!'• buy an autumn gown that rrn nerve oil the street uud t a protective rovering. aa well as In the house, with a hope of Its hurting tn g.~>d condition until oevt spring. She milige* Hut a top Coat Is necessary, and she knows ■hat fur nuta will 1» In high fashion as long as they bold out In the

! kei.

ir ny a

plushes uo and afr

Tha other ewet Is of l*c» with wide shawl collar sad 1 bark caffs of mdleskin tau|>e color. Excrirt for twu t*-« the side stitched d..wn ' ' line*. It Is entirely plala la " *' •if showing bow experti' tie managed the dadgro-r ot ' w plaerd a small Insert e f a eot ofit In the sleeve above H“ Its rotor ha* much to do »‘'k CU&ee of this rsut and d.«'-'-' virt of designing that sri"' 1 ’ It Is a gettfleweiaanV nearly all the demnod-' «*f ,t,r seawm and a very fcsi 'l-ei"' : with all tu rimptirii} 1' •' u " the front and r<sy l»e h*-vbt

f.jl in In ti: ting wnalskta, ^lan lamb, hmadtnll and • moleskin and l.roadtnil the IVbest looking coats ij tn tusuri.iua wraps. . i.na loirne furs f.e the

■ for.

rirtaht. i

v» ^ ratio-

trltmoed wl lest ■

the |d.-ture Is of sent pluM, wit), lar and cuffs end wide birder *t the bottom ot short hatred for This la a ti-e .if comfort In ibe •obt-st weather. It tins a plain holy with a skirl pnr rwm the h«ck. and a wide belt that !» the oni) break In

ttv long linen

organdie or ttM It

aqwart- nn-k *OT not grarlo**-