r and II

: To say I lie least, salt* for fnli hare 5

presented in greatly varying J , modi to t!* sttlsfx 'Jun of! 1 trtio aspire to looting more than they really are. bs well as rbose aspirations are all in the r direction, in spite of the perwlth which fashion artists

raw attenuated ladies. In writhing

t. for our admiration, women con-

Inue sensible enough to object to I

f angular and skinny. The dei of suits have been Hod and e are new models for the too sleui the too stout figure. The posu "model thirty-six." or any r model of good proportions, can e any of the various styles.

Ai the right of the two st-ils, shown 1 in tue picture above, .» a model 'hat U simply shave off pounds from the

t figure, hong and gently currlng . almost unbroken from bead to

beels. are cleverly oik-uUled to derive the eye and smooth out the sharp

* in stout figures. American wom-

en having Undated on longer skl-w. Paris accepted tbelr decree, anu this suit takes advantage of the mode to gp to a- extreme of It. By this meens the figure is lengthened. The cost fob tows the same strategy and note that the waist Une It Indicated as very ; by the grrap of three narrow tucks In the back of the coat that end in au arrow head, or “crow ioes,".far helow the normal waistline. Silk em1 broidery on two fiat strips of cloth applied at the sides Is In the aamtcofor as the suit. These bands are a concession or a recognition of the

voguo for widened hip lines, but they do not actually widen the figure at all The .suit is made of dark brown trico

tine.

The model at the left la an Interpretation of the Itusslun blouse suit, al ways dear to the thin woman. Thi plain JSdrt Is shoe-top length. I hi eo.it has a full blouse and a skirt gathered In nt the nnturai wnlst line, giving fullness about ths^hlpa. It U short enough to break the figure and prettily decorated with a round silk braid couched on. In tals coot tht choker collar Is .node uf opossum tui and arranged to fasten up about the chin. In the’other suit, fur Is left put. but the popular efepker collar Is re tnlned. mnih- of the fabric and Jeoor11 led with carefully done embroidery. Pbr.the blouse suit, one of those new cloths thnt have a si I very sheen, due to a napped surface of *?niy <which Is used with all colon) looks particularly wed with the gnij* tones lu the fur collar. Alas, yes! suits are expensive es pcciayy when emanddered. But diver women have been known to buy a plain suit and put embroidery on it themselves. thereby saving nl.out S—1 and presenting themselves with an exclusive design.

Ribbon for Costumes. Ribbon Is used to a considerable extent by American designers making up tbelr autumn models. And a big use of ribbon prevails In the develop ment of costumes for several Imjwrtant and extensive thea'iical production*.

oi\on\y omer

GOWNS AND HATS

:?+

Pannier Returns and Hoops About Hips May Bo Seen— Shoves at Vaniehtnj Point

mort of boope about the hips and 1 about the bottoms of the skirts. Thfe sleeves ntnr In vogue can fierdly be called sleeve*. They actually are Just a Uttle strip of material over the top of the shoulder. In most Instances BUI* AID WHITE POPULAR noon. In the evening flier* U 00 sign

to be seen of sleeves.

Even the blouses for wear with tailored Knits are scacttly equipped as to sleeves. They will 6e quite high at the neck, buttoning up under the chin mam uncomfortably on a hot day, and then they will have these little, laadeouate sleeves—list Is. they are Inadequate for anything except setting off

Co lew Form Favorite Combination at French Resorts—Strip** In Narrow and WW* Arrangements— Skirt* Are Vary Short. From all signs this will be * d*dstae season In Paris in so fai 'ashJon creation Is concerned. Th* signers seem to have taken on th-jtr old accustomed stride. They have turned their efforts unreservedly to leadership In the world of «yle. To aid them In this crucial moment there are arriving from the United States, from South America, and from England hosts of buyers and fashion experts to watch the latest developments. 71118 is almost a new experience. At least It is a revived experience. for through the last five years only the most favored of buyers have been allowed to crow the water and only a few of the dressmakers hare kept np their work with anything like

pre-war vigor.

American women during the war have developed a style all tbelr own. Tbey are dressing now as suits the climate and tbelr life and their pursuits. which are quite different from the French woman's. And one sympathises with the buyers, who wonder whether their clients at home will refuse to accept the wonderful things brought over from France. If their eyes are trained only for beauty they sill be da riled Into letting ell their aecusmlated notions of dress go by

Indeed, a Frenchwoman's drees of the present mode Is little more thin two strips of material sewed together and cot kimono fashion, though the lines of her frock are not Mowing; they fallow the outline of her figure. Evening gowns, far from being an exception to this rule, carry things to on exaggerated degree. The economical use of material there extends to the neckllnb, which not only opens at back to the waist but sometimes below that point These gowns are low In front also. AH that la used for the b'xHcea are two pointed strips of material on either side of the front In order to keep this on there are (triage oT Jewels or beads attached to the points strung around the neck, and from the back of the neck strung t. the waistline again. It Is ibe fabric of the evening gown that coonta for everylMng and Its draping. Favorite Color Combination. Black and white In by all odds the favorite color combination at the French resorts at thi- time of Its year. Black .and white stripes, since early spring, have been very good for aepa-

Tbe bunt 1 bv her own beauty dm-ior. and *itr need not regret thi* If she gives herself fifteen mlnut.-, time nt Uu- end of each day. Junt before retiring. The , hand*, u* well as the fare and acalp. (uiuz have aysteuatK- attention. Many girl* who do office work, or «ell good* over a counter. Injure their hatuU unnecessarily „ by not washing them often, for uiuili dHinaxe is done the null* and akin by permitting an accumulation of din to remain in the pore* for several hour*. When ticanidng band* *0 stained, soap and water aftuuld not be the find application, for nothing but a soft grouse will be nffertive. The finger tip* require several extra strokes. Binning must be thorough. lArylng flnlshew the cleaning, but Is oot the simple process that many person* think, and In the manner of doing It He* half the secret of having nretty nails Euih finger mum be taken *cpnriitil), the towel rubbed down the aides, back and front, beginning al the top. The common mistake 1* to begin at

File the Finger Nails To keep the nail* In good condition, always file them, never u»e the ,ci» non to cut. Cleanse under the nail* with equal part* of lemon juice and water, foe an orange-wood stick; also ktw# the cuticle around the nail* smooth. 1'oltsh the nails wbeuevel

Nails that break cuidlj must he given a i-ourse of olive oil. It should be rubbed into the finger tips each night. Massage well sod occasionally give the finger* a bath In hot olive oil. If it 1* n« convenien' to use lb;- oil. vaseline is a good substitute. Whenever doing rough wodt the fingers j should be protected with glove*, if it ■ Is not coin'ortsble to wear them user I tin- whole hand, finger* run be cut j from old glove*. Polish for Nalls An Inexpensive and hur-ules* nail |to}(*b In made by thoroughly mixing together a half ounce of talcum powUgr. a half ounce of powdered ..larch. | a half on ore of pulverised l«orlc add I and 15 drop* of tincture of carmine. Do not rub the nails until the sensitive flesh beneath burn*, a* thi* '-nunes J the u to become dry and brittle.

Not undet stood, we gsilisr raise la-

the board and the conservatives at

borne will not be salted.

At this time of the year al! of Franco, as all of the rest of the wurid, seeks s cool spot; sad so It la et Deauville and th- otber resorts by the sea*•0 3 that one loots upon the fashionably aira-ed crowd of women and l* able to gain some Idea of the trend uf the Ome* ns rogaro. dress. They are wearing the very latest thing* from a French point of view. and. of course, the majority of the fall fashions will follow- in some respect* the

lines favpred Just now. Skirt* Are Very Short.

Well, the tendency U ell in the direction of the skirt* thnt are shorter than anything America bn* ever worn or even dreamed about. Ton hear It raid that the Parisians arc wearing their skirts very long, hut when fou »ee them with tbelr skirts actually extending Juat below their knees, so that when their arms are raised the skirt pullx above the knee, you know what a short skirt really la. It la cany on material and Is extremely good looking when the figure of the weerer •land the strain. The skirts are tight, too, but wbut matters that when their length Is what It 1st No trouble about taking a good, long step In a dress of this character. Then the coats, when U is a suit, roach almost to the bottom of the skirts lea- log. In fact, only about two or three Inches of the skirt to be aeon. The o ala ore either strictly tailored or they show a little full ness about the hip*. That tells a story

of forthcoming fuUnt

greater volume.

It 1* so with the dress**. Always •here Is a Might gathering of extra material where the hips Join the waist, it i» the pannier that Is greeting uu on the broad highway of fashion. As yet tr not large enough nor full enough

And hug thro, closer as the years go by. “HU often virtues seem to us tranaAnd thus man rises, falls and Uvea

FflR “Flli”

An gft.-moon hat of unusual merit. The skeleton ostrich feathers make a lalng trimming for this exquisite headgear of velvet.

rate silk dresses end for enlts, at well ns for topcoats Now the new woolly fabrics are appearing, and they show stripes In wide and narrow ar-

rangements.

Then there Is the black gown with the white hat; that Ik the most effective. This season they are wearing over the white hat. which Is sans trimming. a black, lacy veil. This makes the costume even more effective. The veil does not necessarily cover the face—In fact it rarely doe*—but Its lacy pattern Is so distributed that the white showing through the black transparent patten, makes a trimming

of its own.

Hats Without Trimming. The bat*, as a forecast of fall headgear, are mostly without trimming. The style is all in the line, hut how that line U obtained Is « complete mystery. Upon examination the riddle only becomes more complicated. There semis to be nothing there except a band of aometblng stiff to fit about the head. The crown and the brim are entirely without Inner Mtffealng or frame. The trie', docs noi allow for explanation. It Is all In the wlxurd who causes It to J>e. Vet. when this seeming mass of velvet or satin is put on the head It taki*s a shape and form that commend U to any wearer. It seem* to bore been made to set off at Its best that face clime, end while you (at.not say that the hat la round or oval or square or long, atlll it bna

shape. (

.The felt blacked hats worn with niidw-aaon gowns are round as to crown anil as to brim as well. Thie brim turns up at the same dial once all the way round and the only triinmlnc for the hut It’ a silk band of the oam<eolor. Hats of this character In beige and taupe worn with navy blue suits ••r-> effective. Then there la another

It k not large enougu nor tun cuongu -r- caeowve. turn mere is auuuje, m he ■leaning though there are r.- 1 varia.'ou of this hat done in duvetyn. I

FOOD FOR THE DAY. The simplest food* well cooked and •erred are th* taost satisfying to the •majority of people for every day. Coconut Blaque—Grate one coconut Without removign the brown skin, cover with one quart of witter boiling hot. and let stand until cold; •train through a thin doth, and add the Juice of one lemon and sugar iaft» Serve cold, preferably. Eggs De Lasseps^—Saute the egg* n a pan with a small amount of butter. taking care not to break the yolk, nien place then on a hot platter and Just wlA salt; brown the butter In the frying pun. add!ng a tcaspoohful of vinegar to four eggs, and one tea•poonful of minced parsley. Sem with calve'* brains that are boiled, sea •oned and sauted In butter, then pom the aauce over the eggs and brains Claridge Beef Heart-—V’aali and remove pipes from the bean, wipe dry. stuff with an herb stuffing, tie securely and roast for about three hours la moderate oven. Remove strings, rve hot with gravy poured around Stuffing—Chop one ounce of suet fine, add two cupfuls of bread crumbs, chopped onion; season with parsthyme, pepper, aalt and bit of grated nutmeg. Mix well and add one whole egg to bind IL Sauce—Mix three, large ripe tomatoes, two sliced onions, two cupful* of stock. Juice of one lemon and a teasitoonful of prepared mustard. Cook 15 minutes, mix with a tenspoonful of cornstarch dissolved In cold water; nib throngh a sieve, reliefer spd add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Fish With Green Pepper.—Take one and three-fourths cupfuls of cooked fish and one cupful of white sauce. Cook a half a slice of onion in butter until brown, add salt, pepper. Far boll a pepper, then Cut In strips r.nd add to the fish, onion and white sauce. Serve hot. * Celery Toast.—Cut tender stalk* of celery Into thin slices and cook In salted water until tender. U*e tuft, little wnter. so there Is none left wbefi cooked. Add cream to cover, season with pepper and salt; add flour with a little cold milk, mixed to n paste un til thick. Prepare buttered toast and pour the celery sauce over It. Serve piping hot.

OATES MAKE MANY DELIGHTFUL ANt^ WHOLESOME DISHES. A few dates, a handful of nuta, a hit of bread and butter, a glass of milk, and one I* well fed. The date I* valuable food, and It is refresh lag occasionally to cut loose from modern cook cry and enjoy first prio

dple*.

Date and Apple Pie.— Line a pie plate with a rich crust, fill with n mixture of chopped dale* and apples, using one cupful of dote* to two of apple: sprinkle with cinnamon. sugar and dot with bits of butter. Cover with a top crust and bak( In a moderate oven one hour. Serve hot or cold with whlpiied cream oj a la mode. Data Sandwich**. — UeiDove the (tone* from wetl-waslx-d date* and ent In (tripa; add an equal quantity of pecan meat*, cut fine; mix with a little creamed butter; add a da»h of salt and aprend on Mice* of breai Stuffed date* make n most dainty Utile dessert when one dm** not w ish anything m8rc filling. Stuff with fon dant. cream cheese, or with nut*, a* all are good. Date Cream Puffs—KIM cream puff* with a mixture of nuts, date* and whipped critnn; roll In sugar serve. The puff*, if made very small, look more dainty and go farther. Oats Bread.—Make a sponfce with one quart of lukewarm water, half a compressed yeast cuke and a teaspoon ful of salt, one and cue-half pints of flour. When light and spongy add half a cupful each of sugar ami molasses and flour to make a drop hat ter; add two cupfuls of chopped dates; km-nd mid let rise. When light, mold Into loaves; rise again and bake -.5 minutes. Date Pudding.—Take two-thirds of a cupful of chopped su.-t. one cupful of bread crumb* one egg well beaten, two table*!sjonful* of sugar, one cupful of milk, one cupful of stoned date* --nt fine, one tenspoonful of vanilla, two teuBpoonfuls of baking powder, a hnlf-teaspoonful of salt and eneugh flour to r, ia kc a drop batter. St.11 three hours and serve with an e A chicken salad which la different one using a small oupful of chopped apple with the celery and chicken, adding the usual dressing preferro. "yUjujii

Keep Your Liver Active, Year System Purified and Free From Coldi by Taking G&lotabs, the Nsusealcsfc Calomel Tablets, that are Delightful, Safe and Sure. Physicians and Rraggirts are adrialag their friends to keep their systems purified and their organs in perfect working order a* a protection against the return of influenza. Thry knew that a slogged up system and a laay liver favor colds,Influenza and serieoa complications. To cut short a cold overnight and to S vent serious complications take oae otab at bedtime with a swallow at ' wa'cr—that’s all. No aalts, no nausea, * no griping, no sickening after effects. Next morning your cold has vanished, • yonr liver is active, your system is pnriiied and refreshed and you are feeliag fine with a hearty appetite for break* fast. Eat what you please—no danger. Cdotab* are sold only in original sealed packages, price thirty-flve cents. Every druggist is authorized to refnaA your’money if you are not perfectly delighted with Cal otab*.—(Adv.) Why Girls Stick Around. “Why will none of you girt* mar* ryr There's a quarrel a* to who get* the piano" ,

Don't Forget Cutlcura Talcum When adding to your toilet reqabdtos. An exquisitely scented face. skin, baby and dusting powder and perfume, reu* dering other perfumes superfluous. Von may rely on It because one of tba Cutlcura Trio (Soap, Ointment and Taicum). 25c each everywhere!—Adv« The Difference. _ "It la a far cry." "What ur "From a real cocktail to near-beer."

DEWS_OF EVE No More Gentle Than “Cascarets" for the Liver, Bowels

It is Just a* needless as It is dangerous to take violent or nasty cathartics. Nature provides no shock absorbers for your liver and bowels against, calomel, harsh pills, sickening oil and salts. Cascarets give quick relief without injury from Coo!stlp_atton. Rillobsnesa, Indigestion, Oases ‘and 31ck Headache. Cascarets work while you sleep, removing the toxins. end sour. Indigestible waste without griping or Inconvenience. Cascarets regulate by strengthening the bowel muscles. They cost so Uttle too.—Adv.

Profound. ‘Is Flubdub n profound lawyer?" •Very., He'd lug Magna Chart* into n dog case."

A SUMMER COLO A cold Ir the summer time, as everybody knows. I? the hardest Wind of a cold to get rid of. The beat and quickest way.Is to go to bed and stay there If you can. with a bottle of “Roaches’* Syrup” handy to Insure a good night's rest, free from cougMng. with easy expectoration la the morning. But If you can't stay it, bed yon rnffit keep out of draughts, avoid simden change*, eat sparingly of simple food and take occasional doses of Boscbee'* Syrup, which you can buy at any Mora * where medicine to rcld, a safe and eftdent remedy, made in America for more than fifty year*. Keep It bandy.—Adv.

Stocked Up. “I hope next winter will be mild.” “Why?" "We have little room In our cvller for coal."

GOCDBY, WOMEN’S TROUBLES Tb» tortures and discomforts at weak, lime und aching back. »walks feet and limb*, weakness, dlsiiryos. nansex. a* a rule have their origin la kidney trouble, not "female complaints. 1 * The*- general symptoms of kidney and Madder disease are well known—ao is the remedy. Next time you feel a twinge of >oia in the bark or ore troubled with headache, indircatloi. Insomnia, irritatioa in th* bladder or pain in the loins and lower abdrmru, you will finl quirk and sure relief in GOLD MEDAL Haarlem Ofl Capaulec. This old and tried remedy for kidney trouble and allied derangements has Stood the test for hundreds of years. It do«. the work. )*ains ard troubles vanish and new Ilf* and health will come ts you cantina* their use. When completely restored to yonr usual vigor. conUnur taking a capsule or two each day. GOLD MEDAL Haarlem Oil Capsules are It"ported from, the laboratories at Haarlem. Holland. Du not oeeent a substitute. la sealed bozos, three aixea.—Adv. A gallon of water (I’nltori States staixlnrd) vvlgli* eight and ■•m- half pound* utid con In In* 2H1 cubic luche* On, nt tv P«ery‘. "n-. l Shot" will

. rabie foot of water contains nrvco aim mu.-half gallon*- or L728 cub‘c • lachc*. nnd •weighs C215 1‘ouuds.