TfciUearm. whkls hJ.T« ne.-er b««& teunrmd, boUi ia nIU U4 4p«*«es tor women of ^ i, «re «tUl uptomns «iiort *11111 th* D« Ibm new«e edition* wits tke ■tamp of the bMt doiitnen In jnartc*. fh >w a decided lenrhened mklrta and :h* autnred tumble pr/rtm baa aotnethlm to do wltb lb* r*** .wben yardaitn will n-H be so eh a. aerWa problem, but moat »L<elr It l» vcaaeertloa o' decency and native retaeMMil that la reapoaalble. H la exreealTely bad .onn for the boas to appear above a tall walking or draaa eboe or aoat. oenee the aklrt may aeeaaaartly meet el thee the ehoetop or hl*i-curved edse ot the apat. The obaerraaca of 'hi* little detail mark* the well-dre**ed woman of reit and col tare > dapper ac■neb a smart detail to the atreet co* tome are cboaen In a lighter tone of color than the cloth, or when the purae

The ripple or circular aklrt which U apreaiinj la *on>* of the newcat tall- ;•«». bealdea one-piece gown*, require

a eery^trlm foo-ltne.

ThU model aklrt U the foreranner of the atill fuller aklrt that la predicted

signer* la Paris featured surprisingly full aklrt' for tke.r winter exhibition* In the strirtly tailored anlU the ~ aklrt* are plain with self-mateMn belts. Center ceetas and panel electa arc esuimea added to break the straight, bat effect- Panel* have rounded edge* tfcn Up across thn front seam* of the

aklrt.

Other* have shaped, frequently stitched band* of aelf-matchlsf material that extend* part way around thr aklrt. usually appearing at the aldea. The tapering effect for the aklrt maintain* where the atraigbt-llne prevalla ftr the coal. However, where the baa a tendenci to flare, as redlagote or riding coat, the ak'rt usually accommoda'a* the new line and Increase* in width accordingly. While there aic numerous accepted llnee In tailleur coat* cartaln mod«l* take precedence over other*. The seml-flttlng-ntraight-Ilne coat >» the one that maintain* everywhere, no matter the length. There l* such ^Uclty rad youth conjured here, that women of all agee manage to. include at 1—■’ one such model in their wardrobe. Tbcee models are both belied and unbelted. *nc ns a rule have long.

deeptte many of our polite proteats, la featured for thtintype of costume Moreover, the high collar U being brought out for all-manner of tailored k Where an ultra emih touch la desired, a tall offcandle or net frill flaroa above the collar. The uneven, edge of the skirt U a factor that follows in many of the more extensive models where the sides ot the ooet are paneled, these piece* extend below the front and beck sections end vice versa. The cut-eway Use 1* now not so much favored as the deep, graceful dip In *r of the coat that swings a bit full In the skirted portion. The fronts In other model* are cut in deep points, disclosing much of the aklrt. An Imported coauune treated In thU manner was In wood brown velour, combined with gray broadcloth braided in brown. A ahaped plsc*. ot doth started on the left shoulder swept es under the ben. ending In a gracefully cut reverehavtng The character of the braiding was bold and dashing. The front* In other model* are cat In devp point* In front, which la longer than the back. The diagonal slashing across the from of the coat la another whim following trend for an uneven line. Frequently the cost boasting of this treatment la one of those lorg. looa^back models, ras*!^- a Ulhe below the normal walatUne and pouch.-v In froa* Here, too, we find the exaggt-ated long saipUce collar of far doth with one end terminating several Inches below the girdle One of the newest and really smart trimming* for tallleurs la dre ribbon used a* bindings and to form stripes and block*. Vertical lines of this lustrous braid are much liked for both aklrt* and coal*, ltd* «ed In color*, but 1* especially good-looking In Mack, brown, gray and dark bine. Three excellent models are 41 played on this page and sbo wtbe present tendency In costume lines. The Am model of duvetyn is built on semlflttlng liner, showing the lengthened coat wtih trimming of velvet or fur. The model carries that dignified air iat women of conservative tastes

rually choose.

A rery ccan fort* bl e-look lug model is Shown of striped homespun havlnr wide border with the stripes running In the opposite direction. Jam la a costume designed of velour. modUbly combined wit*, a i cloth called Xeruml {bki la unusually rich In appearance, suited for trimming purposes or for garment*. In ail White it .a regal looking for evening

Signs of Brightening Skies are Seen in

Business By B. C. FORBES

Often a stonn la worst Just before passes. There are encouraging Indications that the present business atom is already beginning to dear in certain direction* The year-end may bring a number of commercial thunderclaps But the financial light-

ning la about over.

Some sulta. capacisii the botne-spuc or loosely woven novelty, having ' line stripes, are devoid of trimming. Again, for velour and duvetyn triloria marks arc employed. Many b mdaome m-xteir of Ihl* type have self-toned embroidery. and when the price goes soaring fur la added for the collar, cufir. and perhaps s band oa the ed ot the coat or the aldea of the skirt. Ramlni&cent of other days la t *«ml-fitting tailored model cut h long , line* or In gored sections, ha* lag cld»d flare from the hipline. The alee res are invariably long and closely filled The col lan. are shawl rolling away to the waist or wide revert that softly ripple are featured y The high choker cellar that is steadily pushing Its way to the Ti

Trend of the Smart Mode . a etteutve line of simp • rilpovt r dresses was recently shown by an American designer. These have short sleeves, round necks, long plain bodice teaching to the hips, a scant gathered skirt and a sash of the fabric. The tbs lower edge of the sleeves sod the sash are bound with taffeta in a brilliant color, snch *. royal blue, snraid green. n»by or scarlet The chief njtes that stand out distinctly in all be ready-to-wear diasaes are: ihe continued preference tor slipover style* in straIgbi-Une effects and profuse use of embroidery. Quantities of cnea.;~i gown* In dark colors, such as navy. Urte de aegre. or black, covered with an allover broidery In string-color silk or mereertted cotton

are not'ced.

Black v civet dresses are very prominent. These are built on simple lines with a wide sash of velvet 11 d aria a brtlUan colored metal broe> This touch of color In the only thing that lightens the tone of the costume. In evening gowns quantities of black satin are used, conjoined with brightoolerd net, the retail shops still giving preference to net rather than to the dyed laces which were featured by the

Dresses In bright-cok-ed crece de chine made with rounded necks and long sleeves have recently appeared U> exclusive display* with various

forma of self-trimming.

PER CENT. PER ANNUM ON SAVINGS ACCOUNTS

Open a

Savings Account

by Mail

Add to it regularly and know the satisfaction of watching your wealth increase CAPITAL AND SURPLUS K000,000

WEST END TRUST CO. and So. Penn $», PHILADELPHIA. PA.

i Uuanselves and significant of timer time* ahead. The financial atmosphere, only ipoeetiy heavily surcharged, baa cleared up remarkably. The salvace of launC. Durant, of General Motors; Allan A. Ryan, of Stuta "corner' - notoriety. and & M. bhatakln, cutting quite a figure In Wall Street, has eliminated what the stock market "sore spots." The banks have a greet deal more of this sort of UUng. and. with exceptiooa. the principal cripples have rw been taken care of. The security marke's have not again The undertone has than quiet buying was attracted during the went debacle and daring short* are Jt finding it so easy to bay what they ive sold. Tbe Improvement in bank reserves, oognblned with the more settled condition in the stock market, has can-

to

Uons for a number of large new Isitues of securities for foreign Ir addition to European obligations, active attention la being given to requirements of verions South American countries. Cuba and even Mexico, the Inauguration of Prealdeot Obregon being interpreted aa foreshadowing the retmmptiou of friendly cooperative relations with that potentially rich bat temporarily straitened nation. Easier Menep Rates Expected lariy in few Yeai LlstiscUy easier money rates are expected in the latter part of January, and by then It la also believed that the turn In the security markets will have come definitely. inch tor the betterment of the monetary and security market outlook. Even In the industrial and commercial world gratifying symptoms of Incipient steadying have not bees wani- «- . One of the largest antomobUe riant* In the country closed for some time, reopened. Among thr woolA there has been a Allgut broadening of opecation*. Some cotton mills a dispatch from Greenville. S C.. quotes a prominent cotuu manufacturer as declaring "improvement In the textile Industry in the South" Indicated “reoperation of the mills early nu£ year." Shoe plant* are doing a Uitie better here and there, and from other direction* come report* to offset the dnatic curtailment of copper and other mining production, further restriction of iron steel production, limited oper* lion* by cerpc mins and othsr ead Indrjrtri. s which have not yet descended far enough from the dl**y price height* reached during and after the war. The downward movement* in grain* has not gone on unchecked. Cotton n sjsnewhat pvster resistbear pressure. Few ether commodities last w^:k lew price* for the year. Holiday trade continue* surprisingly brisk. New Tp;k store* are dally crowded, and the largest -tore In Chicago reports that In two dayi last week there were more customer* in its wholesale hoes* than for any similar period In It* long history, while "orders for spring delivery placed In greater volume than any preceding week this year." fi f everywhere admittedly are searching for reduced price#, but when they find them, buylnff. as a rale, la quite tensive. The attitude of the public sugrrsti. that when retail price* aie slashel nest month there will be a actable revival In demand for all general llnca of merchandise Notwithstanding the universal expertauor that the year ecd failure* will be numerous- Urt month's 1Ubliltle* were the heaviest since early In ISIS—hue In ear sentiment Is a*, least a little lees paplcky than It wa* two or throe weeks ago. Bankrrt are both speaking and acting more encourag Ingl.-. the modiet resiliency exhibited lfl various market* h*a modified thJ loud predictions of universal dlaastnr that were being made by short-eiriited pnv-more active buy In» ha* •omewbat relieved the gloom of retailer*.. and since wheat grower* and cotton grower* have found that they could not stampede the fedora; treasury into diverting public fund* to maintaining price* artifinally Iheie ha* been more of a disposition to make the Met of *r admittedly dlehearUnlug situation

ip Buyer* of Copper and Rubber Are

Entering the Market

One now runs across reassuring tnciwxts more frequently. 1’erhape the largest buyer of copper In America said to me a day or two ago: "I am preparing tr place orders for all the

copper 1 can finance."

An Important rubber buyer made this statement: "Rubber Is now at a pile - quite satisfactory to me. 1 am buying up spot supplies that are being pressed for sale. Prices well below twenty cents a pound are now discoverable. One ran make no mistake laying In t good supply for the

future right no»."

Recovery In those things which have already come buck to sufficiently low prices U delay<d by the convietion that much readji stment mnaiii* to be

of very Important

products, notaM: steel. Newspapers

with < on d cm nation of re-

teders for delating the lowering ot

their prl<

FASHION»NOTES Interesting Items for the Fair Sex

Is being stamped and embroidered and then out so that the net Is In the background and the other the so-called applique But in the newer embroideries. the reverse Is the case The firmer material serves merely as padding and basis, j the net alone remains after the entire

bat some of th s criticism might well | work is completed, be directed to card leading manufae Thtg yoke u ^ ,b m9 ed that It can In varion lines who are still ^ adopted for either nightdress or resisting the current. j combination. The made-up and In responsible financial circle, ap- , (UUI] ped article* sell In the shops for prehenMon Is fel over the Impending fiT „ d0 llais for the nightie and four inundation of & ngrea* wilt a multi- >nd a QUamr for the combination So pllcuy of schemes for getting at the eTeo v1tb ^tlste at seventy-five cents federal treasury o bolster up this, thy a yard you ^ the saving when you and the next gr >up or section of the a,* things yourself, country. The ot irse followed by both Cv.t out the nightgown and stamp It. the secret try of he treasury and the - you It up baste two thickgovernor of the federal reserve board nMara of nH OTer the part to be em baa be in a* omlcally sound aa It bro | der ed- Baste It very carefully, so

all Is desired ft may be a narrow edge

THE HOME of chocbet or the little triangular —— j point* of the same material as the There Is really nothing more :hann- apron. If you are making the uniform lug than embrolderv-d net and fortu | yourself you can buy this trimming, nately there has been a recent revival > as it.ls also used extensively for color the art. For art It la. In so far a* ' lars and cuff* the cutting of the surplus material - For collars and cuffs are also ingoes. at any rate. Usually the net 1* | eluded In the uniform. The coll.ir Is basted underneath the firmer material. I a straight piece and the cuffs are nar the batiste or nainsook or whatever It j row and tight fitting, looking very (rim

on the uniform of Mack mohair *r

sateen.

uaay .-npathetic to the It Is earnes.'r hoped that

our lawmakers will act with equal wisdom and refuse to “play politic*." The readjuatmen' now proceeding must be a!loved to run lu natural course. Only compllcatiot v and »absent ml disaster would be courted by tesort to artificial means to thwart the law of supply and demand. Bitter though it may be, and In many cases Is. It Is best that we take our mdiclne now and get back to economic health and strength without needless delay. Nothing win happen to change the view prorioualp expressed in these *urveys that, while the winter w.U be rery trying for workers and employers recovery should set In when spring •bowers and sunshine give rebirth to the earth —Phil*. Public Ledger.

Knitted Garments

for Gifts

There la nothing more soluble golf, tennis or hiking than these knitted of fine wool and designed for both comfort and looks. These costumes come In Mae and black, with fancy striped effects of white and tan in the skirts, which are knitted so as to give the effect uf accordeon pleating; but the knitting Is so tightly done that the pleat* do not come out a* they do In cloth skirts. Th# waist* lu most of the models have the appearance of separate sweat- < rt. as they blouse over a wide belt which tie* at the side with sash ends finished in wool fringe or tassel* Some are made in surplice style with tan angora collars and cuff*, others hare round necks with a roll collar effect, while still others employ the

sailor collar.

at instances the girdles are of the sash variety with long streamers finished In tassels or fringe. A few. however, are simply cords run through situ at the waist line and tied at one side and ending in tassels. the majority of dresses, the hleeves are long, finished with a rollback cuff, but one that Is quite pretty is elbow length. With three costume* are worn Urns or stocking cap* to match. »"»nnr a complete outfit without the bo'her of an extra coat, skirt

that It will not pull out of place while you are embroidering It. Use.ordlnary net. about the veigfat used for bridal veils. After thl* 1* basted, sew up the garment. Then ttnbroider It wltb forty or fifty thread. You may pad or you please, although you will find that the mat-rial Itself will afford ■undent padding. The centers of the flowers are eyeleU and the net will suy In place better If yoi scatter small round eye!el* over the spaces that have no other decoration. The edge should be worked over s string or thread of crocnet cotton, held and buttonholed. This Is not only for slight padding, but so that the material will not tear betweea the scallops. After the embroidery is completed cut the materirl from under the net. Do this very carefully and you will have a beautiful piece or work, and one that will wear every bit aa well as crdlrary work. Make tiny buttonholes at the lop* of the shoulders end tie together

with nsiror ribbon.

The Idea of embroidered net Is very popular, particularly for bab: things. Flounces on the little dre.,*e* and the sides of slumber pillowi worked this wsy. Almost any de»lgn can be uaed. provided that 1: Is not too Intricate tr, allow of cutting

surplus riAterial.

Time vuui wh a a maid was Inclined to turn up her nose at the gift of aa apron, but now most of them are glad to ge< than. For the shops think nothing of charging thro* and even four dollars for a fancy apron for dinner wear. Not that the aprons of the day are fancy either. By the correct appointment of your servants will the visitor know whether you roallxe the correct thing, so It Is up to you to see that the Christmas Hat contain* at least one good apron and cap. The proper thing In the apron line aeenu to be fine linen with hemstitched hem. pockets and belt. There may or may net be the shoulder straps, althoujfh most uniform), look better with them. The apron tself la small. The big white apron is pa*!# except for nurse's wear. If any trimming at

EMBROIDERY IN ODD MATERIALS Thnbiotderies In all sorts of odd aat(rials are extensively used on ail styles of garments. For instanc,, a conspicuous blue serge dross seen at the last races was heavily embroidered In panel effects on the skirt and bodice in nick el M paper clips of bent wire. The clip* were buttonholed on to thr dross with nuvy blue silk at the two

ends.

Trouser buttons of various else# are effectively need by Madeleine A Madeleine. while uncovered wooden button molds and thumb-tacks are conspicuous on the Cherult modelLittle discs of rubber applied es to wool fabrics are featured by the trim mlng houses Hand-painted patterns, the paint thickly applied to Imitate embroidered siltchee. are also In evi-

dence

CHINESE INFLUENCE STRONG Everything Is built on loose, straight likes and the Chtneae element la strongly featured In dresses, that la in say. long, straight tunics and panel lings are prominent. Wide sac bee tied a low waist line. In crepe georgette or In the fabric are cons pi coons and need extensively on tailored drosses In serge aa well as on drossier gowns In velvet and In crepe de Chine. In fabrics, crops de Chine and crepe canton wltb silk velvet In black, navy blue and golden brown, from the yardage point of view are the materials

chiefly employed.

The Increasing demand for crepe la naxlng. Evaa lor winter, three-piece crepe costumes are being shown and are worn by many of the smartest

For Instance, an Imported costume of gray crepe de Chine which was shown at the openings har been pur chased many times. This feature* a one-piece dr**s In crepe d* Chine wifto loop drapery on the aklrt and is worn with a three-quarters length cape uf the crepe lined with gray squirrel.

TUNICS GAY WITH t •ANGLEA Following glpaie* closely in demand are the wonderful spangled tenlea which are being used ao extensively for evening wear. Throe tnulc* are shown In all the most vivid and attractive colors and combinations of colors. The style most noted 1* either panel or apron In effect while ncx* or tulle to match in color are used to gif* flufflne** to the** .•venlng gown*, while the metal cloths in gold. »Uver. steel and copper are used for slips. In a large number of Instances, artificial flowers add the note of contrasting color to those eostun. **.

Time Budgets

Can't see where on earth the timegoes. The days simply fly without m»

getting half 1 wan t done."

1 seem to be busy from mfrnlng

Besides '.bee* sport* dresses, which have just appeared on tb# market, are

scarf, and hat* made of a new art ! until night and yet I don't seem

c-wti fabrir which I* so handled that i compUsh much." lb* Imitation of aatrakhr.n is almost j “I must write tbo*c perfect. This fabri* U made of wool j simply can't find time "

yarn, kiltted so loosely that little How often one hear* compUlnU like loop* of the yarn stand up. giving the j :he above. "How to Uvo oc 14 hours effect of tightly curled fur. ! a day" 1* the next most dlfflcuit probClever turban* and sports hats are lem to “How to live on \n Income that made cf the new fabric, with long. I won t buy half what It u»*d to." wide scarf, to match. And the only way really to solve . ••her problem Is to go at It syrtemsti-

. — , oJly. scrutinising each ited of cxpeii-

It All Depends Idlture with a )m.;cUl mind M^st Of

* lua have tried that on our financial

The suburban night wsa being made 1 probUvn*. but how about our time

hideous by the howling of a dog. and j one* ,

the polloouan paused to speak to the Ha* the lady who said I can resident who landing at his gate, wa* where or earth roy time goes to." evtflsaUy listening to the ranine walls. : Inspected her dally time expenditure -Awful racketthe policeman oV and found out Just where 1 did go.

■erred : Probably not.

-PerrtMe!" the citisen agreed. i Or else aha would have unqurotlon"Wan to make a com pi aim*" the ! ably learned "something to her tdmao In blue suggested sealously ^ vantage" a* the delightful old persou-

-Wl.v cr—not until I am sure," the j als used to read.

resident responded. Tim. Doe. Dlsa f pear "Sure of what?" Bhe would perhaps have dlsco.-erod “Whv whether that 1* my dot or I that the 13 minute* she visions Brown - .. If H I* my dog—oh. well, we | seif as spending over the morning have to put up wltb a few annoyance# ] paper. 1* really nearer 40 minnlro. She In thl* life, you know, but If It Is | would very likely have found that Brown's—why, by George. I don't pro- [ several hour* a week of that myrtcrpose .o have my life made miserable j loasly disappearing time goe.. Into by a pulsate like that!" i telephone coovere Jlon* She would ———— i perhaps have bee* astonished to di*Hlnt to price*: Do your Christmas cover how much trine the making dropping early. ’ elaborate desserts takes; or bow ma

hours she »pem shopping for an article that she ultimately got only a lew cents cheaper than she might havcbougfat It at the firs* she looked; or Just how much more time H take* to do her hair an elaborate way Jian It would In a simpler fashion: or bow much time some long tolerated Household Inconvenience eat* up Now. mind you. 11am not condemning any of throe nsage* of time. That is a matter one must decide for one self. I am Just suggesting that it 1* interesting to know what one Is spending one's time for, so rti— one may consider the whole situation and make up one's mind whether one Is getting the most possible pleasure and pro*! out of one's tine income. Hard to T.H Sometime* It isn't always easy to decide thU. In my own life there tr. a problem which I h..ve often faced but never satisfactorily disposed of. I know whhre too much of my time gw*—Into slrop. I always feel rebnkeu when 1 road the Palmist's reproachful "Yet a little slumber, yet a little folding of the hands to sleep.” And still 1- doe* seem to me that that extra hour (1 want nine hours) adds to my ettctenc;ln my waking MW*. Every now and •hen I rearrange my time budget and cut that hour out. And then 1 gel tired and put It In again. With the help ol mental science I hope some lime to cut It out allege'her and be more like Solomon* Ideal woman who “Risetff also while It H yet night." Bot there are other way* in which 1 have increased my time efficiency by stopping small leak*, and I have found the results well worth the effjrt of. Try it—If you haven't alrrao-.