THE REALM OF FASHION.

SSaKgatffiSKH&3SS8tffi8ffi8SJ

trimmed. I* In the belsht of «tyL U eminently well lulled to both afternoon and ereniny wear. The chic

to see the fine collar return wash as good as new. without a weak or worn spot and as fresh as possible! Of course, the collar was oat thrown tub of other househdU linens.

riser g

May Manton model Illustrated Is both simple and elegant and Is suitable alike to the odd bodice and the entire costume. The original Is of white taffeta with trream guipure lace and Is designed for wear with odd skirts, but Loulslne silk, crepe de Chine, panne and all the soft-flnlshed silks are suitable. while countless materials might be suggested for the entire costume. Wool crepe Is charming, etamlne '« fashionable. Albatrosp Is much used and both linen and cotton materials of the finer sorts are In erery way appropriate with trimming or needlework or lace as preferred. The foundation Is a fitted lining. On It are arranged the tucked rjest front, the fronts proper and the back. The front Is tucked to yoke depth and falls In soft folds below and the fronts proper are laid In three tucks each at tbes and drawn llftllght gathers The lace trimming it In points and arranged to glee a

A new touch Of eleganct refers to the emplacements of lace which trim our alee res and bodice. Instead of allowing the material of the b igh the meshes are lined with or linen of the aame shade aa the lace—beige, cream, hcru or string color. aa the case may be. This looks rather cooler than If the color of the dress, presumably darker, showed through the Interstices. It Is considered rather more distingue than If the lace wire used over a "iransparenL" The Small Boj * CTsWtroat*. The rests of waUtcoatr of the small boy. are gorgeous to beheld.' Be may be as much of a little dandy as may be In red waistcoats of different designs. With red buttons of not only a different design, but different shade of red: there are tan waistcoats, all of these double-breasted, and little sin-gle-breasted waistcoats of white.

Narrow relret ribbons and beadings. In both black and white, hare come to be such a necessary factor In nearthat It Is scarcefind a gown whoec coo.-

The tucked shirt waist has an extended rogue, and Is a well deaerred ■farorite for sll the thinner washable materials aa well aa for Albatross. Fool crepe, similar wool fabrics and soft, simple silk*. The May- Manton

,y

WOMAN’S JACKET.

waistcoat Effect that is quite nor el and smart. The sleeves are In bishop style with deep pointed cuffs of lace and the stoik collar, also of lace, finishes the To cut this waist for a woman of medium site four yards of material twen-ty-one Inches wide, three yards twen-ty-erven inches wide, two yards thirtytwo Incboa wide or one and fire-eighth yard forty-four Inches wide win be re qulred. with seven-eighth yards of allover lace to trim aa Illustrated.

The aU-around. useful Jacket that can be slipped on over any gown U ■enrial both to comfort and correct dress. Theoriglnal of the Jaunty 1 drawing Is made of black cheviot, selffaced and tailor stitched, but black broadcloth and tan covert and mixtures are equally appropriate for the purpose, while the design Is adapted also to the picturesque golf coat In red with green facings. The fronts are fitted with single

el shown la exceptionally Ing and eminently smart. The Is made of white linen lawn and Is unlined, but nil cotton and lln materials are appropriate

are eminently satisfactory made over the fitted Imlng. Aa Illustrated the waist U wor# with a qollar of the ma

tertal. stock, tie and belt of Liberty satin. The fronts are laid In narrow arms'-eyes. the first three being con tinned -to the walsi line while the remainder are left free at pointed yoke depth to form soft folds*t>elovr. The sleeves are In bishop style tucked from the shoulders to within a few Inches of the wrist, where they are let to form becoming puffs. The wrists are finished with straight pointed cuffs that lap over at the seam. At the neck is a deep straight collar finished with turn-over, or protection, portions. \ To cpt this waist for a woman df medium site four yards of material twen-ty-one Inches wide, three and three-

latloB coat style. The neck Is finished with the latest style collar that ■ • feats the Alglon. but Is turned down and meets the revers. The aleeves are two-seumed and flare over the bands, the outer seam being left open a few Inches at the lower edge. As shown

the Jacket worn « the waist beneath, bn

low the short' revers or dfa

the neck as preferred.

To cut this Jacket for a medium size two and a qui of material thirty-two In

oft nod seven ■eighth yard foriy-

tebe* wide or o

a eighth yard forty-four or one and flve-eigbt&

fifty Inches wide will be re

»e turn-over shoulder collar of fine otlste With insertions of needlework r lace. Some aie eypenslrt, others ulte •Teaaonablc.” The collar borered with duny lac* requires no In-

quarter yards twenty-seven Inches ; ride, fhree and a half yards thirty-two Inches wide or two . Is fo^y-four Inch

SEEKING GUTTA-rERCHA

A WORLD-WIDE HUNT NOW •CINC MADE BY THE NATIONS.

p *•» Cables amd

tbs Snpplr Is Limited.

A serious element In projects for the construction, of submarine cables Is the Increasing scarcity of guttapercha. an! consequently 1U Increase Ing cost for gutta-percha is an Indispensable cable Insulator. Between 1861 and 1890 the amount of guttapercha exported from the restricted region where It Is produced Increased from 1890 to 46.000 tons. Even as late as 1882 only 3800. tons was exported, so that the actual Increase In the nine

years was 41.200 tons.

But this Increase In production by no means kept pace with the Increase In demand, owing to the enormous extension of cable laying in the 80a So Intimately allied are electric cable extension and gutta-percha production that !n the year or any riven period of years It la quite possible to measure *the one by the othsr. But comparatively speaking cable laying In all parts of the world has so outstripped gutta-percha production that there

has been a

the coat of gutta-percha li

Between 1889 and 1898 It Increased

ercha'ln the market.

said George -Clapperton. traffic i ager of the ,Commercial Cable Company. "la a vital factor In making submarine cables and I have heard tha comparative scarcity of gutta-percha discussed as a serious element In the cable laying of the future. But the promising view of the case Is that really, there la not a vast deal of deep sea cable laying In the world which

remains to be done.

■The last link In the second line from England to South Africa has Just .been completed and the German cable to this country has bees laid. The two great Unee in contempaltlon are the American cable to Hawaii and the Philippines, and the British line from British Columbia—about 16,000 miles. Then there la another line In consideration from somewhere os' the eastern coast or South Africa' to Australia,.about 1500 miles more in Northern Europe, making a total of from 23.000 to 25.000 miles. When these are completed the world will be pretty well Immeehed with cables and It would be comparatively limited for a time at least thereafter. “Now. of course, the construction of ’the 16.000 mllee In the Pacific alone will require a vast deal of

perch a Yet I 1:

e the cable man-

futta-percha In sight. “There la absolutely no ether sabstance known that will take the place of gutta-percha as a shield for the copper wire case of and electric cable. Search has been made and la till being made for something that will do aa

with other substances, but they all’ failed. So the deep tea cable seems practically to be dependent upon

property not only of not de-

teriorating Y>y submersion In sea

of actually improving the

water, but ol longer It Is 8

that has been at sea for years la t

0 of the 1 when It

waa first laid down. It retains Us

and remains still

trie cable with gutta-percha the' most difficult and dellcaU processes In cable manufacture. The slightest Imperfection In the covering or. a port'^he fraction of a.hair's breadth In size means sooner or later a broken

tbe flm-et quality, la lald on over the wire to a thlcknes of about the diameter of the wire 'Itself. Over thl* U laid a coating of a paler and cheaper -quality of gutta-percha, and then come the steel wires to give tensile strength. Over the whole Is wrapped Jute cord coated with tar.

ed with the Commercial Cable Company. -one person who. although he It a important part to perforaJ, Is In s first cabin p «« — the •gentien of the skip-' Until 4 the time oot for him to get In his fine work he d no labor what solutely neeesi hls hands soft | "This is the man’who lays on the gutta-percha covering over tbe parts of the cable after they are spliced. It la the most delicate anJ careful work Imaginable. He has to go over the gutta-iiercha again and again, smoothing It down with hls fingers and examining H minutely as he works to see If there la the slightest imperfection or the poroelly. This every coating« requisite thickness of gutta-percha 1 'lareached. “A man whose hands were to'the least hardened of- calloused with rough labor never could do It. so the •genGeman of the cable repair shiphas nothing to do between cable spile-

berth, but like moat easy bertha It requires a corresponding degree of skill to go with It" In Prance of Jate years there has been a growing anxiety over the Inscarcity of gutta-percha, for in that toe French d alder that cable laying will end by a good deal when the world, la girdled round and round about with the cables now In operation or contemplation. A great deal of ink has been spilled Jn France of late years to point out the fact that all these cables are English lines touching for too moat part on English soil alone, to fact, with the recent completion of the second Ilbe from England to South Africa, the earth la girdled with cables which touch land nowhere save where the English flag files. Several French write*# have recently viewed with alarm the-ircxnendoua advantage tola would give Groat Britain In a war waged with one of the few nations that are approximately

ength.

an 1 guttaIndispensable to submarine cables, the tree which yields the precious milky gum from which guttapercha Is made has become an object of very great International interest. Commercial concerns as well as governments themselves hsvc In the past few years been giving very close attention to the gutta-percha problem. Tropical forests have been ransacked for the tree or for one so nearly akin to It that a cabl^-covering product may be had from It and there are various attempts at creating plantations of the original tree In regions where heretofore It has not grown. The for‘eat ransacking has resulted In failure and the plantations have not yet got

beyond the experimental stage. The area In which-the gutta-percha tree thrives la extremely limited. It is confined exclualrcly to a portion of toe Malay archipelago and the Malacca penlnaula. Where there Is an %ven temperature of an average of from 80 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil la favorable the tree grows with great vigor. But with only a alight variation of these conditions and particularly where there are sudden changes of temperature even If those changes are sot extreme, It

The does

le Philippines touch closely upon gutta-Jtrcha belt, yet the tree s not grow there Indigenously, and It la at least very prolematlcal whether It can be cultivated there- It will not grow In Cochin China, likewise near the. gutta-percha belt, because the average temperature la too low. and toe changes too sudden.—

MAN MILLINER A SUCCESS.

".Yea. certainly." said the milliner. “If I ever open a regular millinery shop with a stock on band I shall have a man for one of my saleswomen." •Tea, I mean It." she went on. “I have had experience eqough to know that man la In the right plgce In such a position. Why. If you have a man designer In the place and a woman who U buying a hat la not quite sure whether it la becoming or not. If the

natter-at

man will «b ft 20 women. 1 would

have a shop

without a man to It somewhere. ^"When they have the talent, too. men make clever milliners. I have men come to me to study millinery and learn the business, exactly aa a woman does. They put on their aprons, begin at the beginning and go through the work from,first to lasL A man will handle the needle Jrfit aa well aa a girl ana sometimes better. I notice that to many thing* they are really better. In making bat frames.

"Now, t have a nephew who la g

through college,

course, but every Saturday

taking a regular

lay he comes

to me to study millinery, and by the

time he has finished colltge ha will be ready to go Into business aa a designer. Ha will go into some large house or I may take him to with .ma "You see a boy like that la an artist Ha has a natural tCent for the business. and It would be a shame to keep him out of it You could not make him a designer II It was not to him. Designers are born, not made. It la talent Just aa copying is a talent

who are natural designdo not wish to see too

much of anything. They will see s hM once, get an Idea from IL and go home and make a bat. It. may be on toe same line*. poaanaj7bnt It will be different That Is where a designer and a copyis- differ. Dselgnars cannpt copy. It to Impossible for them'to carry out an Idea twice to the aame way. ‘But copyists must he exact They will look at a hat over and over again, and they can make a hat like toe erne they have seen am) they can't

make anything else.

"Men to the millinery boalnaes are

ties than women to some ways. A man can take a few bats and travel around, go to different hotels and stay a few'

days. a«U out hla

to-anott-

do bette

goon

Aa I said, they will 8 they are men. Th*

frequently has to become known before •te can do business, but a man to all

hM If

SS.r*: and be wUI a York Time..

a* white and delloate as a fine lady. are auppdtcd to !»;. it to as easy

the first, and if be can hats, whnt he says 'goes.'

he makes.—]

G. F. QUIBORT Sanitary Engineer I HOT WATER •»» l I“ r eo«Ti5Vi?c„i fixtures | STEAM HEATING Estimates Cheerfully Furnlehed. IMS NSHH! 'FBOK COHfCTlOI. 105 jKtson Street, C*P£ MM. 1.1

DF{y GOODS flRD ROSIORS Also a complete stock of heqvy and light weight UNDERWEAR •0-DIX WRAPPERS A Specialty.-*■ We charge nothing tor .howlag^ood*. Tberrfort, w* tnutyoo will all and exsmlns our stock before going elsewhere. OUH MOTTO ft TO PLEASE MRS. M. A. CLARE 303 Broadway and Turnpike. CAPE MAY N. J.

Geo. C. Edmunds Groceries, Meats and Provisions. 41 Broadway, West Cape May. PROIFT DgUVKHY. ['• CHOICE OOOOM ONLY

Connn

E. BENSTEAD, Choice goods handled only. Strictly pure canned goods etc. Goods delivered to any part of the city.

Cor. BROADWAY and MYRTLE AVE.,

WEST CAPE MAY, I

J.. D. CliAIO, . - RE1-A1KER OF jewing J'ffac'hines & @rcans 420 Washington Street. J. R. WILSON & SON, STltES P HOSE FWSBUIS MIS Matting*, Oil Cloth* and Linoleum*. Com. ‘WjLMacxnroTonT jlsto TDsoArtrtrm ST-xucarra

If You Want to Make a Present, Buy some of our Diamonds, Jewelry, and Seasonable Novelties. WE HIVE JUST WHIT IS WMTED FOR l WIFE. 1 BRIDE OR FRlEMD . Id addition to our excellent assortment of luxuries, we hare many of the necessities in Watohee, Clocks, Eye Glasses, and, indeed, everything that can be found in a modern Jewelry Store IN OUR FACTORY ALL KINDS OF - - REPAIRING IS DONE - - - Diamond Cutting and Setting a Specialty JOSEPH K. HAND, 311 Washington. St.

CHARLES T.'CAMFBELL,

Milk, Cream, Butter & Eggs

'RHONE RS.

AGENT FOR THE

Th&tcfcir Hfg. Co.’s Creamery S applies.

CAPt MAY CITY, N. J.

DECATUR STREET

CD. <s. Bengkef?'!' § Sons, - ~ ^yiumiors - - and i§team ?i({eps. e&MViiiBV wsies & eipssmv'j Estimates Furnished. 41© Washington St.. Caps May. N. j:

the GAPEs MAY HERALD It a Clean Family Loot! Paper, Published for the betterment and advancement ol Cape May Issued every Saturday Morning —7" SOS Washington Street SUBSCRIPTIOff PRICE 81.00 PER YEAR.

The Herald

•HtJob Offlceife Is oqupped with New and Modern Type. Ideas thoroughly up-to-date and practically handled. Can turn-out first-class Work at short notice, and at reasonable prices. Ail kinds of COMMERCIAL PRINTING /Book and ©abulak WorkSatisfaction Guaranteed