New York .City.—Fancy waiats that | where thei Include bolerea with elbow sleeve* are | gather*, much In style, and are charming for | sitn] odd bodice* and gowns made en suite. [ waist III

iply drawn down In gather* at the

The sleeve* are full, sug

gestlng the bishop, bot include deep cuffs, pointed at the upper edge. To cut this blouse for a woman of medium slse three and seven-eighth

THE SMALL ECONOMIES. A PREDOMINANT FEATURE OF OUR •1C INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES.

>rv*lr Du. la tka Cara With

Ulaa U Mada Agalaal

**

PraSU Ara Lai

Which frarUiaa U Mada Acalacl slbla W aata - »li 7 VUliars Ara Walaaar. a* a Bala, la Moat rarterial. Few persons who are not themselves actively engaged in trade and manufacture realise how Important a role the practice of small economies

In the t enterpri

To the giant United States Steel cor-

o workings of the big Indt

trial enterprises of the preeent

idUB-

Manton example white si! and guipure lr.ee. with a jacket of pastel pink taiin sapho. lace trimmed, and is -designed for wear with odd skirts, but pompador silks are exceedingly smart for the bolero, and all the plain and flowered sorts are appropriate. as are poplin, etamnle, veiling sad the like, when the skirt matches ne bodicerwhlle the waist may be of Kiy soft material and In the same or ' Antrastlng color as preferred. The 'Tull ijuffed sleeves are graceful--and stylish, bnt sung fitting ones can be ' “substituted when found more becoming. The foundation lining Is snugly fitted

poration, for Instance, with It* proflu, as recently announced, of 1300,000 n day. It might appear that such trifling matters as the saving of stray screws and waste iron dust would hardly ap-

ysrds of material twenty-one Inches | P e * r worth while. As a mater of fact, wide three and a half yards twenty : however, such saving are very well seven Inches wide or two yard* forty i worth while, and It Is lantely to the four Inches wide will be required, with ; c»re with which provision Is made one-half yard for shield and collar. | •«*lnst possible waste that tho large

Skirts that Include variation of the I profits are due. ,

circular flounce and that flare freely I So keen has competition become In at the^nwer portion are In the height the branches of production that It of present styles. The smart mode' 1 v eO r often requires nothing more than jjiown 1* peculiarly satisfactory and th 0 mere difference between economl(fslngiilarly well adapted to all flgures and extravagant management In as the front gore Is plain, the flounce 1 th 0 smallest and what might bo being Joined to the side portions only. ■ thought the most unimportant of deThe unbroken line of the front gives ; i* 11 * t° make one enterprise a success an effect of height and slenderness, the other a failure. "Look after while the flounce provides the needed ; l* 10 Pennies and the dollars will look fulness at sides and back. ! after themselves" Is a maxim which The front gore Is plain, shaped to be j applies with as great force to the close fitting at the top and to flatv at *>lg corporajjona as it doe# to private

the feet. The side portions are clrco- Individuals.

lar. and to their lower edges the clrcu- ^ ^ ew year* ago sawdust used to be lar flounce is seamed. Short hip darts ' thrown away. It was dumped from effect a snug lit at the sides and the ! 1110 bl S lumber mills of Maine and fulness at the back is laid In Inverted ! Michigan into the rtyer streams and

pleats.

To cut this skirt for a woman of medium size eight and tbree-qnarter yards twenty-one inches wide, seven yards twenty-seven Inches wide, three and seven-eighth yards forty-fonrf lo/hes wide or three and seven-eighth yards fifty inches wide will be re-

quired.

\

A SEASONABLE DESIGN.

and closes at the centre front The ! waist proper is plala A<TO** tbe shoulders and drawn down in gathers at the waist line, but the front is mad With a yoke of lace, below which tb material 1* tucked for a' short distance, then falls In soft becoming folds, and -doses at the left side beneath the Jacket. The sleeVea. as shown, are full and gathered Into deep pointed cuff*, but can be made plain when preferred. r '‘ At the neck Is s stock that match)

the yoke and closes at the centre front. The bolero is both novel and graceful. The back is smooth and plain, but both . fronts and sleeves are laid In narrow 1 ‘ tacks, stitched . with corticelll silk. Furnishing the neck is a round collar L that Is extended down the edge of the j fronts where it gives a jabot effect

Hungarian style, are In

' Tb# sleeves, b 1 dhow length

lower edge,

r- To cut this waist In the medium - slse t* ree and an eighth yards of ma * ferial twenty-one Inches wide, two, and a half yards thirty-two inches . wide, or one and seven-eighth yards C forty-four Inches wide will be re

L. «juln*d. Kr» I'ynrtis ■ 7* "I* * 1 ami ■ I

i and are slashed at the

s aver la. v for collar, yoke

the under bodice: three and a quarter * yard* twenty-oaeNtnches wide, throe } yard* twenty eevec Inches wide or one I .and a half yard* forty-four Inches ‘r for bolero, with four sad a half # of lace appllqa* to trim as Ulua

comb Is one that'has a slight curve In the centre of eicb tooth, giving It a firmer hold on the hair than the ordinary comb. MUms' Shirt Waist. Waists with deep tucks at the abonlUers are in the height of style for young girls, as they are for their-eld-ers. Pique, duck, chambray. madras and Oxford make the favorite washable' fabrics, bnt taffeta, peuu de sole and inch simple wools, albatross sad veiling ore all In nse for tho cold weather waiats. The admirable model abown la' of white mercerised dnek with handsome pearl buttons, used for/the closing, and Is nnllned. but the fitted ‘foundation is gdyisible for all silks and woolen maferiola. > •The i lining la carefully fitted and closes with the 4alst at the centre back On It arc (arranged the front atllr backs proper. Uld in two deep pleats that extend brer the shouldert. but are atitebed to yoke depth bnly. The sleeves arc in shirt style with deep cuffn and at the neck la worn a plain st09k collar with a bat-wing tie. To cut this waist for a odas of fourteen years of age. throe aud throeelghth yarda of material twenty-one

waists mahs the accepted

modyu for all simple gown, and odd bodfrrs. The satisfactory m xirl showr to <h» lame drawing Includes the new •rep pfaum at the shoulder*, and is res dvr-d paruhariy effective by the shield

•mt-coUa* of eauiraotiag tutorioL

The Lalsg * scugiy atted and rkwes at the ensure las#- Ou iuar# arroaged •he VUrWlU purta of-the Waul The

f

ta st (ached lathe right aide and! .1

amo- the fen. hot the 1 r

I ' taur separoi'-ly at the fen ■ thsny iwa laches wkfc. *r aua aad

tue>HM«arofelAMthuehaal ImrosNmmrwr yard* rsslj Hm •hut oamaff m the wahfl Um. [ s afe wtt be |

slowed to seUe In great banks, which not only obstructed navigation, but proved detrimental to fish life. Exploelons caused by the generation of gas in the wet eawdust were frequent and caused many accidents. So great a nuisance did the sawdust In the rivers finally become that the city and town corporations were oblig ed to take action against the owners of the mills. Laws were passed making It compulsory to dispose of the sswdust In some other way. and for a time the mill owners resorted to the expldent of burning the waste pro-

duct.

This disposition of the sawdust occasslonedfhn extra expense and other means Were sought by wnlch it could be got rid of. The attention which the matter thus attracted resulted the discovery that sawdust hsd ui never dreamed of. and that instead of being thrown Into tha river or burned It might be made a means of further profit to the owners. Now sawdust Is made Into a groat many articles of considerable mercial value. Compressed wooden ware, panncls and pavement blocks are among the more familiar of these products, and the Industry Is steadily Increasing. By a process of dry distillation. too. gas. alcohol, acetic add. tar. and oils are obtained from the sawdust. These In tom are made intstill other products. From the tar there Is obtained benzole, paraffin, naphthalene, and hydrocarbons which are nsed In the manufacture of aniline dyes. Carbolic add and creosote are also obtained. From the artificial wood a number of valuable articles besides the pall*, panels, and blocks mentioned are likewise obtained. From the plastic rn*«s which results from sifting out the coarser particles and mixing the remainder with various fillers and agglutinin ta, there are manufactured slab* for parquet floors, has reliefs, art castings, and dinner plates. The newest use to which sawdust has been put Is as feed for cattle. For this purpose It is declared to be far superior to straw, and Is probable that In a few years sawdust will be almost as valuable as the sound lumber. The mllli which were the first to realize the value of what had for ao many yean been thrown away have reaped a golden harvest, while those which have fahe^ to look after the sawdust and allowed It to continue going to waste havi either barely escaped bankruptcy or have sold out to their more successful rivals. Ten years ago the Watch trad# of the United States was not only In Its Infancy, but was practically monopolised by two Anna Swiss and Germaty watches were largely sold In this country with competition with the American made article, and In spite of a heavy protecUve duty. At the present day American watches are sold all around the world, and have contributed ao pronrtnecrtjy bo the

alotlng materials to the hands In Um factory, fourteen screws were cot ed as adosen. In order to allow variations in size. Each screw coal approximately shout the oce-bun dredth part of a cent But the new manager aet about elaborating that should make every screw to one atanJ ard guage. The result of these and other similar small economies was not long In producing Us result*. Other managers found themselves ob _ to be economical, too, and American watchmaking machinery and Ameri can methods scored their triumph In competition with the cheaper labor abd costlier output of the rest of ths

worid.

The way In which "little economies'' have contributed to the success of one of the greatest Lea blending and Importing houses of the world ' described In a recent publication, sow," said the writer, “scales that would weigh by electricity to w the hundredth part of an ounce; girls wearing brown Holland overalls, en veloped them from head to foot, that not the smalest bit of tea dust even might adhere to their dresses and b< carried away and wasted; a marve Ions time-keeping machine, that corded automatically the loos of t a single second of time by any one ol the hundreds of employes, and dozens of other similar money-saving time economizing contrivances; and I ceased to wonder that such a business as I saw before me had been built by two comparatively young men less than fire years." One of the greatest Industrial cen ters of the world has sprung up with In the short space of half a dozen yean at the hitherto little unknown town of Bault Ste Marie, where the waters of Lake Superior empty Into Lake Huron. The success of this vast enterprise where the enormous sum of $117,000,000 Is being spent In a plant for the manufacture of an al most unlimited variety of articles ol Iron, steel, nickle and wood, with van loos chemical products as well. Is due solely to the Inventive genius and economies of one man. The first striking Inoration which was effected at the “800” bad to do with the manufacture of wood pulp. By the methods previously employed the pulp as turned out for export con talned a large proportion of water. Thla water added to the weight, and consequently to the cost of transpor

Buss* that It

was announced only a abort time ago that a single firm In this city had contracted to deliver 1.000,000 watches In London within a year. The secret of American succ watchmaking Ilea In-tha *m«ii omlaa effected by American machinery. A rival to the two which monopolized the manufacture hero ten years ago had at lu bead a young man wkoee early days had been passed la considerable privation. It may have beea the training la economy which his early experiences had thus given him that fed him to «xaariae with special car* all the lit lie dstalls of the establishment and to be continually vsgtchful for jgeaaa aad methods that would prevent wasteful-

The tolfewiag alary ta tald: On* day soon after taking over the mamMemena ef the ceneern, he

Oat a wort girl

atody apd experience a new process was devised, and now pulp is produced In a much drier state and the waste of money In freight charges is saved. Other factories where the waste still goes on have had their profits almost entirely wiped out by the reduced price at which the pulp can now be

sold.

A few years ago It was a very com moo practice for the managers ol mills and factories to show visitors over their premises. Very often an employe was detailed to take the strangers about and point out the dlf ferent features of Interest It was thought good advertising and well worth the Incidental trouble. Now that Is all changed. Hardly a factory of Importance In the country permits visitors to gain entrance to Us works, and signs to that effect are displayed conspicuously on the gates outside. The reason Is not that It la desired to maintain secrecy regarding the machinery and the plant, but simply that It la a waste of time. It wastes the time of the manager or superin tendent and It causes a waste of time among the men. The entrance of a party of strangers to the factory is a signal for the emplome to turn about and look at them. Tie lost time may amount to only a minute or two fot each employe, or even a great deal less than that, bat repeated two or three times a day. and In every Je partment, the loss amounts up to s very definite quantity. And lost time means diminished output. ~ Otif of the results of the "amsdl economies" of which American m*i)n lacturers have been the originator* has made itself felt 'in England in a rather amusing way. It has long been the custom there, especially In the large cities, to serve afternoon tea to the employes In certain kinds of 1 tahUshments. The custom of ti serving few to such proportions that It finally meant a considerable outlay to the proprietor and it Is now being generally discontinued.—New York Times,

SHE IS A BEE FABMER. p” “ ^

A FORMER STENOGRAPHER HAPPY IN A NEW CALLING

Bms, Sb* Thinks, Are Abonl lbs Mart ProflmbU Urn Black Ou* Can Bals*— front la tha Hanay —Tb* Mabac«m*n( of tha fans - Sba KaUa* Duck* Also.

Near Chaxy, N. Y., la the smallest live stock farm that ever made a profit for a farmer. The proprietor '.s a woman, who was a successful New York stenographer until compelled by typewriters' paralysis to seek another

occupation.

Her stock farm is less than four acre* In extenL She owns BO cows. | horses or pigs, and chickens are noticeable chiefly by their absence, y\:t despite this lack of the annlmal* commonly found on farms It is safe to

bed.

"The drones have no stings and no Influence in the hive. They take a short afternoon flight each day. and for the rest of tho time remain In In-

activity.

"The worker bees tolerate them so long as there It an abundance of food, but after frost shutn down on Lae bloom I will come out in the yard some morning to find the ground strewn with dead drones. The workers have tired of the drones and thrown them out. Patience has ceased to be a virtue. The unlucky drones ( are caught wing and leg and ejected, j and the entrance to the hive la closed and they are left tb freeze or starve

the cose may be.

two hundred acre farms surrounding

her.

Her specialties are Pekin ducks and bees. The former she sells to a hotel, while the honey Is shipped through the east. In speaking of the bees to s correspondent of of the New York Sun.

ires pom e said:

Curtou. Old CwjSra. In oas of the suburbs of Pari# a wealthy merchant died the other day, and on the evening of Uie funeral his neighbors wire eased n carious cere-

mony.

An hour before ihe body was to be taken to the cemetery the relatives of the dead man. five or six It number, went out Into the garaea adjoining the house and walked solemnly and silently arbund It Each carried a lantern and kept hi# eyes fixed 00 the ground, as though he were looking for something. Finally they all halted la front of n Urge pile of stone*, and. laying aside their lanterns, proceeded to throw down tne pile. Alter every etone had been removed, they examined minotely the spot on which the pita bad reeled, and than slowly, ana with hewed heads, retained to the house. This fe an old Norman cos torn, and it waa observed In tbfe Inataare beeaane »he dead man was a native of OL burying a body all Us

imsbssu5K rr

: one can raise. Not long ago from 70 hlvea. I gathered a ton and a half of honey In four days, worth at a low figure more than $200. This was only part of my crop for the season, and I have since gathered several tons more of the finest light honey, ot to mention the yield from the buck-

heat crop.

"The bad weather of last July waa a bonanza for bee fanners. It was Ideal weather for flowers and not only kept bees working long hours but also t an exquisite flavor to the honey, ripest fruits are the sweetest, and ao are the ripest blooms. "My man Pete and I worked from mdrnlng till night doing nothing bnt remove the honey from the hives, and carrying new frames for the bees to fill. By the time we had reached the back of the yard the frames we had emptied at the front were full again. It was exciting work dhllo the honey burst lasted. "How many bees have I in all? Oh. something like a couple of millions. I suppose. It U said that the average hive contains from twenty to forty thousand and I have 70 hives. Next summer I shall increase to a 100 hives. I have plenty of pasture for that number, I think. "I do not want to make the mistake of overstocking my range. Two years man In Vermont had 600 hives, be ran for comb honey to snplarge restaurant In Boston. He got a bad season and not only had no honey to sail but he had to buy a ton of sugar to.feed his bees during the winter mouths. “They don't thrive on sugar, either. It doesn't pay to overstock your pasture, and neither does It pay to try ibstltutes for honey on which to winter the bee*. Some people have tried taking all their honey to sell when the market was good and then feeding glucose at two cents a po In a very shoi ware dead. Even the bCit refined glucose contains a trace of sulphuric acid, which Is rank poison. “The bees of course travel a good deal further than the limits of .my little farm to get their sweets. In fact

count on are the basswood, clover and buckwheat blooms in the order named. “I get a light crop, say half a ton. from the herbs which ripen In the spring before the basswood blooms, and another in the fall. Thla honey Is really valuable for medicinal purposes, having the properties of several curative herbs. ik 'Through the summer the beea draw largely for their honeyttipon the various fruit blooms, strawberries, raspberries. currants, grapes, apples, etc.. and the wild flowers are also a never failing source. In a three-mile drive last summer I counted 28 varieties'of bloom oil which the beea were at work. The clover honey la the brightest and most healthful The later crops, particularly the buckwheat honey. Is dark and the flavor not so good. • •T supply the market with extracted honey only. The bees can make several pounds of honey in the time it takes to construct \ pound of honeyccfeUt, ao I prefer to kse|> them at the more remunerative labor.’ “To extract the honey the combe are pot in a machine which rotates rapidly and expels tha honey by cen trtfngal force. The combs are not damaged In the least ana are put back lc the hires to be refilled. "When we are short of the natural comb we supply an , artificial comb 1. which 1* a sheet of wax stamped with the pattern of the ceil base. The bee# start from thUTUd the time red for completing the much shortened. If feft to their 0 allfe often produce aa • they oal aad make boo* are by bo alar with (fesa farmer*. At _

00

for the .queen 1 choice .f a mat wide field for a

•eceat £ U

» 1b bar

the bean to not work weU wttboet tha •reatlva give, to support theta boar* ‘K laat eaf« to laferfew too mask *b their bread!— pfeeua at the «$■*. bat taler ta Ue re-on ma—

"Bees are good citizens If they are treated right, but they do not like to be InterefereJ with, and they are nervous and excitable, fhey become ugly If the hires are opened for honey when the weather Is cold or at night, for they know that cold air Is bad for the young bees in the brood chamber, and H once they get angry they are apt to stay so and to resent even the commonest familiarities for the entire

season. *

"My bees are good-tempered because I have crossed them but little. A bee never sting* without good provoca-

tion."

ORIENTAL SERVANTS. A Vesture of Hoaxkeepln, on tho reel tic Coast. Housekeeping in California and. Indeed, on the whole Pacific coast, has such an emphatic Oriental tinge that the exclusion act has more to do with the proper washing of western dishes than one would Imagine. Many a housewife in the west hope* ardently that the exclusion act may not be renewed. for the unrestricted Immigration of Chinese would solve the domestic help problem of the west There ere a great many more kitchens waiting for Chinese and Japanese boys to fill them than there are competent boys and the maid servant Is grok ing scarcer and more scarce os women find out how much more useful than a maid is a man In the kitchen. To begin with, there ore so many more things that a man con do. Very often the housewife end her daughters do not object at all to doing the chamber work, save on sweeping and window washing days, but they do object to watering the garden. which Is a six months' duty during the dry seaeon’in the west Here the Japanese or Chinese Is most handy. If there is a little gardening to do. he does It after he Is through in the kitchen; a man always looks better than a woman as a waiter, and often he looks after the family horse, in addition to his other duties. Of course he is well paid. The cheapest Japanese cooks are now paid $6 a week, and frequently a schoolboy earns $5. Good cooks in the families where a second girl Is employed and the family keeps up some style are paid from $8 to $10 a week. The best cooks are Chinese; the best waiters Japanese. Often the "second girl” Is a Chinese boy. A change In theUst two years Is In the substitution TsTOapanese butler* for the English or American article. Several fashionable hostesses have a Japanese In a tuxedo at the door on their reception da>s, and at least three prominent society men in San Francisco have Japanese valets’. Young Chinese girls from the mltsions sometimes serve aa maids at teas and as waiting maids on ordinary occasions, and some travelers bring back dainty Japanese ayahs, but until the slave girl problem is settled these valuable bits ot femininity are too much of a temptation for the highbinder to moke the mistress who employs them feel absolutely safe. It la unpleasant to feel that yon must watch a mold every moment lest she be kidcapped. Every serving mold or man In the west nowadays has an afternoon and evening out. and on these days the mistress almost never attempts to get dinner at home. Either the family arranges the night on one when they ore invited out. or -else the entire family goes to a restaurant for that night—Opod Housekeeping.

Mrtfs n**t of tesbargs. A terrible fleet of icebergs seen on a voyage from New Zealand to Cape

to find ourselves surrounded by 17 icebergs, ithe number Increasing throughout the day. until at one momtot I myself counted 22 together, and there were floes of ire all about "us. On one occasion, during that first night as we were slowly coasting round a monster ot about three miles long, the captain suddenly discovered that It was joined under the wa.ter.to a berg on oar .other side. A great block had probably fallen away. It was Just toward dawn, and the light was so extremely bad that It waa just a mere chance that the rippling of water over the covered ire showed our danger. To have continued would hav* meant certain disaster. The startaard engine was at once reversed ao 'that the ship might tarn more quickly than aha could have aaewered to the rudder, aad we rounded our adversary on the eouthera side. We were aaoag th« Icebergs altogether about M hours, for It was not before Friday at midday that we were finally clear of them. Nat only were they quite unexpected, hut neither the captain (la over M voyaaes round the world) Mr any of the •area la all their e—erteare had. else or aemfier ta equal three which

m a reeoari voyage."

]